Portrait of a Giving Community: Philanthropy by the Pakistani-American Diaspora

Adil Najam examines the philanthropic attitudes and preferences of expatriate Pakistanis in America.

The survey questionnaire directly tackled the question of motivation and asked respondents how important each of a set of motivations was in making their philanthropic decisions. They were asked to rate a set of given statements on a five-point scale ranging from ‘very high importance’ to ‘no importance’.

The results from this analysis highlight a number of interesting findings … The single most important philanthropic impulse on the generosity of Pakistanis in America is a desire to directly help individuals in need, including friends and extended family in their kinship networks. Nearly 80 per cent of our respondents rated the desire to directly help individuals in need as being of ‘high’ or ‘very high’ importance for them and only four per cent considered this to be of ‘low’ or ‘no’ importance. In fact, the second highest ranked category is directly related and only amplifies this result, with nearly 70 per cent of our respondents ranking the ability to help their kinship networks (friends and extended family) as being of ‘high’ or ‘very high’ importance to them. The only surprise here is that, contrary to what one might have assumed, there is a notable minority (over 10 per cent) that considers assistance to kinship networks as being of ‘low’ or ‘no importance’.

In terms of the role of faith as a motivator of giving, it is not a surprise (given what we have already found from other parts of the survey) that over 60 per cent of our respondents believe that their religious obligation to give is a major motivation of their philanthropy. What is striking and noteworthy, however, is that one in five of all respondents believes that the religious duty to give is of ‘low’ or ‘no’ importance to their philanthropic decisions. This should be contextualised with the response to a different statement on this question which referred to causes related to one’s religious identity. Interestingly, about as many respondents (a little more than a third each) consider giving to religious causes to be of ‘high’ or ‘very high’ importance as those who consider it to be of ‘no’ or ‘low’ importance.

Indeed, community motivations seem to be as strong a pull as faith-based motivations. Nearly as many people listed the desire to return something to the community they grew up in as being of ‘high’ or ‘very high’ importance to them as those who rated the religious duty to give as an important motivator. More tellingly, the number of respondents who felt that giving back to the community they grew up in is of ‘no’ or ‘low’ importance is notably lower than those who rank the religious duty to give as a low motivation. It becomes even more clear that community is a strong motivator of philanthropy by Pakistanis in America as one looks at some of the other results from this question. It is not just that our respondents place value on giving back to the community they grew up in, but more than half (54 per cent) also consider giving to the community they now live in as being of ‘high’ or ‘very high’ importance. In defining the notion of community more broadly, the same number of respondents (54 per cent) consider philanthropy directed at issues important to Pakistan’s development to be important to them.

Other possible motivations fail to garner clear enthusiasm from our respondents. Giving to important global issues on the one hand, and giving to religious causes on the other, both show very mixed results with about as many respondents rating these as important motivations as those who did not. What is striking, however, is the very obvious lack of enthusiasm for giving to educational institutions. Nearly half of our respondents felt that returning something to the educational institution they had attended was of ‘no’ or ‘low’ importance to them; under 30 per cent felt that it was of ‘high’ or ‘very high importance’.

This is rather surprising given that one of the most important assets that Pakistani-American professionals (for example, doctors, engineers, etc.) tend to bring with them from Pakistan when they come to the US is their education and training. Arguably, this may also be a function of the fact that (according to many of our focus group participants) most Pakistanis in America are never asked to contribute by the educational institutions they attended in Pakistan. Except for a handful of institutions such as the Lahore University of Management Sciences (LUMS) or the Aga Khan University (AKU), a culture of giving to educational institutions — or even considering these as potential recipients of one’s philanthropy — has not really developed amongst the Pakistani diaspora in America. Indeed, more of our focus group participants reported giving back something to the universities they attended in the US than to the institutions they went to in Pakistan.

What makes people give: If motivations are the things that pull people towards giving by resonating with the reasons they consider worthy of their philanthropic support, there are also a set of more practical considerations — such as simply how easy or difficult it is to give to a particular cause or organisation — that push people to convert their intention to give into an actual contribution. We will now turn our attention to these practical motors of philanthropy. What are the types of things that can turn a person’s well-meaning desire to be philanthropic into an actual act of philanthropy?

The obvious place to begin exploring this question is to look at our respondents’ attitudes to different methods of fund-raising. The survey questionnaire presented our respondents with a list of fund-raising methods and asked them to rate the effectiveness of each method on a five-point scale ranging from ‘very highly effective’ to ‘not effective’. The critical lesson to be drawn from the analysis of the responses received is clear even from a cursory glance at the accompanying figure. Nothing is as effective in raising funds for an organisation or cause as personal testimonials and appeals by friends and family in the US or in Pakistan. Again, we seem to be confirming the adage that ‘people do not give to organisations, people give to people’. This result is not surprising, but the intensity with which this view is held is compelling. It is not only that about 65 per cent of our respondents consider fund-raising appeals by friends and family to be ‘highly’ or ‘very highly’ effective, it is also that if we include those who rated these as ‘effective’ the total number jumps up to over 85 per cent.

To an appreciable extent, visits by representatives of the organisations allow people to get a more detailed picture of what the organisation is doing and to develop a sense of comfort with the organisation that is seeking their support. However, there is lingering scepticism about such visits which were described by one of our focus group participants as “marketing and sales routines.” Hence, we see that although 70 per cent of respondents do consider these effective to some degree, only 32 per cent feel that they are ‘highly’ or ‘very highly’ effective. The methods that are probably the most commonly used — cultural events, formal fund-raiser events, and celebrity endorsements — seem to solicit only lukewarm approval. In each of these cases, around 20 per cent of our respondents do consider these to be ‘highly’ or ‘very highly’ effective, but as many as 40 to 50 per cent feel they are either ‘not effective’ or only ‘slightly effective’.

Interestingly, many of the methods that are most popular for fund-raising by US organisations — websites, membership dues, mass mailing, media advertising, phone requests and pledges, and email solicitations — receive little enthusiasm from Pakistani Americans. Membership dues, mass mailings, media advertising, and phone pledge drives are all immensely popular and powerful fund-raising tools for US charitable organisations. Yet, the percentage of our respondents who considered any of these to be ‘highly’ or ‘very highly’ effective was in the single digits. In each case, between 60 per cent (for membership dues) to 75 per cent (for phone pledge drives) of our respondents found these to be either not effective at all or only ‘slightly’ effective.

Nothing is as effective in raising funds for an organisation or cause as personal testimonials and appeals by friends and family in the US or in Pakistan. Again, we seem to be confirming the adage that ‘people do not give to organisations, people give to people’

Email solicitations received the most negative reaction with over 80 per cent of the respondents considering these to be not effective or only ‘slightly’ effective. This sentiment was also vociferous in the focus groups where a strong case was made many times that email solicitation may not only be ineffective for fund-raising, but actually detrimental to an organisation’s image unless a giving relationship has already been developed through other means between the individual and the organisation. Illustrative of this strong view is the fact that as many as 53 per cent of the respondents believe that this method is simply ‘not effective’. A key factor behind this is the fact that people’s emails are already bombarded with too many unsolicited and sometimes unwelcome messages and they consider most mass-mailed emails to be intrusions on their time and private life. This may also be a reason behind the more surprising aversion to phone requests and pledge drives. In this case 45 per cent of the respondents found phone pledge drives to be not effective at all. The focus group discussions alerted us to the nuanced view that for many Pakistani Americans an unsolicited telephone pledge call from another Pakistani is more uncomfortable because the cultural affinity and formality makes it more difficult to say no.

It should be noted, however, that the reaction to websites was not as definitive as to emails. Some 45 per cent of our respondents do find these websites to be effective fund-raising tools, if only because of the information contained there. Of those who do not, only 25 per cent stated categorically that these are ‘not effective’.

Deciphering this response in the context of responses to the other questions, it seems that there is a significant cohort that does find websites a potentially useful device that can assist in fund-raising. Our focus group discussions further substantiate the view that although many are still uncomfortable about giving money through a website in general using e-commerce transactions, there is a growing number of people who will look at websites to develop the sense of comfort and trust they need before they contribute through other means. Although the survey results predate the 2005 earthquake in Pakistan, that may well have been a pivotal experience in the community’s philanthropic experience in terms of the use of websites for garnering philanthropic information as well as for making philanthropic contributions. A number of institutional and informational websites became the real hub of philanthropic activity amongst Pakistani Americans in the immediate aftermath of the earthquake.

Catalysts of institutional giving: The second question we will report on asked Pakistani Americans to rate a large number of practical factors that might influence their decision to give to institutions on a five-point scale ranging from ‘very high importance’ to ‘no importance’… For an overwhelming proportion (82 per cent) of Pakistani Americans the single most important factor is the assurance that a large portion of their contribution would go directly to intended beneficiaries. This not only validates the earlier emphasis on the most direct possible giving to individuals in need but also points towards the lurking distrust of institutionalised philanthropy and the generally held feeling that many organised charities and NGOs are wasteful of resources.

The quality of the people who work for an organisation comes in at a rather distant but still impressive second position with nearly 70 per cent of our respondents rating this as of ‘high’ or ‘very high’ importance to them and only 10 per cent feeling that it is of ‘low’ or ‘no’ importance. This, again, probably speaks to the well-known adage that people do not give to causes, people give to people. Giving further credence to this view is the fact that over half the respondents (55 per cent) considered an organisation’s reputation to be critical to their giving decisions, and similar proportions consider the recommendation of friends and family in Pakistan (55 per cent) and in America (50 per cent) to be a critical input for their giving decisions. Given the acute crisis of trust in Pakistani institutions in general, including non-governmental organisations (NGOs), the importance placed on individuals and on reputations becomes central for the diaspora community. In essence, and not surprisingly, people tend to listen most to the people they trust the most.

Results described in the previous chapter had suggested that the events of September 11, 2001 have made the Pakistani diaspora more vigilant but not less giving. This vigilance is also apparent in the responses to this question. For example, over half of our respondents believe that an organisation’s being officially registered in the United States is of ‘high’ or ‘very high’ importance to them. Slightly under half (45 per cent) give similar importance to the ease of making financial transfers to that organisation. It is surprising, however, that in both cases nearly a quarter of the respondents feel that being registered in the USA or ease of financial transfers is of ‘no’ or ‘low’ importance to their philanthropic decisions. These responses, however, might be coming from those respondents who either give mostly to organisations in the US or who largely give to their own kinship networks in Pakistan.

Continuing with surprise results, a number of factors listed in the question did not elicit the type of enthusiasm that might have been expected. For example, organisations working in the region that people ‘belong to’ get only marginal advantage. Only a third of the respondents give high importance to organisations working in the region or locality that they grew up in or ‘belong’ to, nearly half felt that this was of ‘no’ or ‘low’ importance to them. Similarly, nearly half of the respondents felt that getting tax deductions on their contributions was not critical to whether they gave or not; however, for a significant 30 per cent this was of ‘high’ or ‘very high’ importance.

A separate analysis of our data suggests that this factor is much more important to higher income bracket givers, who also tend to give higher amounts and therefore can claim higher tax credits. Strikingly, some 43 per cent of our respondents feel that celebrity endorsements are not particularly important. Even more conclusive is the finding that the quality of an organisation’s marketing material is of little importance to just over half of our respondents. Obviously, people would much rather focus on the quality of the individuals in the organisation than on the marketing material. A quite conclusive finding is that most respondents (66 per cent) do not consider the size of the organisation that is seeking support to be important. This is important in that it implies that even though reputation is a key factor, size is not necessarily a limitation in an organisation’s success in raising support from the Pakistani diaspora in the USA.

The centrality of institutional trust: An overall theme that emerges from the preceding analysis is the critical importance of trust and comfort in the organisation that one is being asked to give to. Factors that can help inspire trust in an organisation become critical to the actual giving decisions of Pakistanis in America. More than half of our respondents (55 per cent) consider an organisation’s reputation to be critical to their giving decisions. Arguably, being already registered in the US (rated highly by 54 per cent), providing regular financial and performance reports (rated highly by 43 per cent), and being able to visit and review the operations of the organisation (rated highly by nearly 40 per cent) all contribute to the building of this trust and, therefore, garner important support from our respondents. However, it should be noted that institutional trust does not come easily. As we saw, nearly as many respondents consider the ability to visit and review the operations of an organisation as being of little importance, as those who believe it to be critical. Slightly more than half give ‘no’ or ‘low’ importance to marketing material from organisations and as many as 43 per cent of the respondents choose to give little importance to famous institutions or persons recommending the organisation.

While these numbers have other significance, they also reflect the views of those many participants in our focus groups who expressed serious concerns about both the ability and sincerity of philanthropic institutions and NGOs in Pakistan.

It is this rather disturbing reputation that NGOs and philanthropic organisations in Pakistan have developed that was the subject of the next question ... In this query, we asked our survey respondents to react to a set of statements about philanthropic organisations and NGOs on a four-point scale ranging from strong disagreement with the given statement to strong agreement ... The question was phrased to focus on what the diaspora feels about the sector in general in Pakistan, and not on particular organisations.

The answers received to this question are both surprising and compelling. In essence, the Pakistani diaspora in America simply does not have much trust in NGOs and philanthropic organisations in Pakistan. Even though they hold certain organisations in very high regard — the institutional names mentioned most often in our focus groups included the Human Development Foundation of North America (HDFNA), Development in Literacy (DIL), and The Citizen’s Foundation (TCF), and the individual names mentioned most often were of Abdul Sattar Edhi and Imran Khan — they are not impressed by what the sector as a whole does or has achieved.

Of those who gave an opinion on this question, over 80 per cent ‘disagreed’ or ‘strongly disagreed’ with the statement that philanthropic organisations (including NGOs) working in Pakistan use money efficiently and for good use; another 80 per cent were equally opposed to the proposition that these organisations are honest and ethical in their use of donated funds; over 70 per cent each disagreed with the proposition that they are effective or that they are working on important issues that need attention. This is a serious indictment and suggests that very large segments of the diaspora Pakistanis perceive the majority of philanthropic and non-governmental organisations in Pakistan to be (a) inefficient, (b) ineffective, (c) unethical, and (d) inattentive to the most pressing issues that need attention. This is not the image that these organisations would like to cultivate and, more importantly, this is not the profile of organisations that are likely to inspire philanthropic giving by Pakistanis in America. It may also be a grossly unfair characterisation. Yet, it is a perception that was deep-rooted not only in the survey results but also during the focus group discussions. This perception is clearly an important impediment to institutional giving in Pakistan and needs to be addressed before more significant resources can flow from the Pakistani diaspora to civil society organisations in Pakistan.

The opinions were less stark in terms of whether these organisations have well-meaning and competent people working for them or whether they have good ideas about how to solve Pakistan’s pressing problems. However, in both cases around 60 per cent of our respondents ‘disagreed’ or ‘strongly disagreed’ with these propositions. The fact that significant minorities do believe that the sector has well-meaning and competent people working in it who do have good ideas about Pakistan’s development is a silver lining, even if a small one.

On two other statements, the opinion of our respondents was more evenly split — even though in both these cases a slight majority actually chose to ‘disagree’ or ‘strongly disagree’ with these sentiments. Nearly as many respondents ‘agreed’ or strongly agreed with the view that the non-governmental sector plays an important role in Pakistan’s development as those who ‘disagreed’ or ‘strongly disagreed’. And at least 45 per cent ‘agreed’ or ‘strongly agreed’ with the view that these organisations do a good job of raising funds in the United States. Both of these, however, are restrained compliments. For example, a number of our focus group participants believe that these organisations end up playing a role in Pakistan’s development mostly because other institutions — and particularly the government — do such a bad job of fulfilling their developmental responsibilities.

An image problem for NGOs: It should also be noted that the impression received from the focus group is that the Pakistani diaspora lacks faith not just in the non-governmental sector in Pakistan, but in all institutions in Pakistan. Between them, the reactions received on these last four statements suggest that there is room for improving the sector’s image amongst the Pakistani diaspora, but the sector does have an image building challenge ahead of it.

A few additional points should be kept in mind as we interpret these results. First, it was clear to the respondents that they were being asked to give their views on the Pakistani philanthropic sector as a whole and the collectivity of such organisations rather than about particular organisations. In a number of cases, our respondents made clear (either verbally or by writing notes on the survey forms) that whatever views they were expressing related to such organisations ‘in general’ and not to particular organisations they knew of. Indeed, it is noteworthy that, based on the focus group discussions, most people seemed to have a largely negative impression of Pakistani NGOs in general but a largely positive impression of those NGOs that they had themselves come into contact with. This suggests a serious image problem for the NGO sector in Pakistan that deserves attention and which is eroding faith in the efficacy and sincerity of civil society in Pakistan.

A second point to note is that all eight statements that were tested were worded positively. The fact that most respondents still chose to record very negative impressions is noteworthy. More noteworthy, however, is the fact that for each of the eight statements, the number of respondents who strongly disagreed with the statement was significantly more than those who strongly agreed. In essence, not only do more respondents lack trust in the NGO sector, but those who are critical tend to be very strongly critical while those who are supportive are only mildly supportive. For example, only three per cent of those who responded, articulated strong agreement with the view that NGOs and philanthropic organisations are honest and ethical in their use of donated funds; however, as many as 27 per cent strongly disagreed with this sentiment. Similarly, only four per cent said that they strongly agreed with the view that in general these organisations used the resources donated to them efficiently and for good use; however, more than 25 per cent strongly disagreed with this view. It should be disturbing to those in the sector that their distracters hold much stronger opinions about the sector than their supporters.

Finally, by way of comparison it should be stressed that the trend emerging from our survey runs contrary to the general trend around the world. Civil society organisations, and especially charitable organisations, tend to usually have a mostly positive image in society. For example, a similar survey of philanthropic attitudes of the entire US population found that over 70 per cent felt that the need for such organisations was more compelling than before, 68 per cent believed that most organisations are honest in their use of donated funds, and 82 per cent believed that these organisations play an important role in speaking out on important issues.

Although our questions are somewhat different, the stark comparison between the generally very positive impression that Americans have of American organisations and the generally very negative impression that Pakistani Americans have of Pakistani organisations is thought provoking. The finding that the Pakistani diaspora in the United States has such a low opinion of the sector makes one wonder whether Pakistanis in Pakistan feel the same way; after all, the opinion of the Pakistani diaspora is most influenced by the views of their friends, family and the media in Pakistan.

Excerpted by Dawn with permission from:

Portrait of a Giving Community: Philanthropy by the Pakistani-American Diaspora
By Adil Najam
Global Equity Initiative
Asia Centre, Harvard University
ISBN 0-674-02366-8
231pp. Price not listed

Mud Volcanoes of Balochistan

Owais Mughal

Pakistan's Balochistan province is gifted with a diverse landscape. Among many geological wonders here, one big attraction is the presence of 18 mud volcanoes. Infact world's largest and highest known mud volcano is located in Balochistan. The altitiude of highest mud volcano here is 300 ft. The mud volcanoes of Balochistan are not only located on the land but from time to time they appear as small temporary islands in the Arabian Sea also.

To reach the most famous group of these mud volcanoes, one has to travel west of Karachi on the Makran Coastal Highway (N10). One has to drive upto a place called Aghor located at the delta of Hungol River. 7 mud volcanoes are located few kilometers North East of Aghor. 11 mud volcanoes are located further west between Kutch and Gwadar.

There are two known groups of mud volcanoes here. One is called 'Chandargup' and other is called 'Jabl-ul-Ghurab'. Very close to Chandargup is an ancient Hindu temple called 'Hinglaj temple' or 'Nani Temple'. Due to close proximity of the mud volcano to a Hindu temple, it is very likely that the word Chandargup is actually derived from the word 'Chandargupt'. Another word which locally mentions this group of volcanoes is 'Chandra coop' which means Volcanoes of the Moon.

It is said that mud volcanoes have roots that go several kilometers underground and act as safety valves for high underground pressure.

The earliest account of the presence of mud volcanoes in Balochistan dates back to 1840. In 1862 Major (later Sir) Frederick John Goldsmid was employed by the Governer of Bombay for special missions. One such mission was a foray into Makran lasting from December 12, 1861 to January 1862. Goldsmid and his party commenced their journey overland from Karachi and wrote a diary of their travels upto Gwadar. This travelogue writes about the mud volcanoes, which gives the first detailed account of their existence. In his journal Goldsmid writes about passing through bubbling springs near Ras Koocheri, taking detours to see ancient Hindu temples of Hinglaj and the mud volcanoes near Ormara. The Hindus worship these mud volcanoes as the habitation of a deity Babhaknath.

It is reported that during the infamous 8.1 intensity earthquake of Balochistan which occured on May 31, 1935 a mud volcano erupted Northwest of Quetta, near the town of Surab and kept spewing out mud for 9 hours continuously.

It is also reported that on November 28, 1945 an earthquake of 7.8 intensity occured in Arabian Sea off the coast of Makran. The earthquake caused a tsunami with a wave reaching as high as 13m at some places. This tsunami killed 4000 people off the coast of Arabian Sea in Sindh and Baluchistan. Widespread destruction was reported in the towns of Pasni and Ormara.

A village called Khaddi got completely wiped off the face of earth with no survivors. Even in Karachi, waves rose several feet through Clifton and Gizri. Sea water entered the compounds of oil storage facilities at Kimari harbor in Karachi. The underwater cable link which existed in 1945 between Karachi and Muscat was interrupted. The Cape Monze lighthouse, 72 km from Karachi, was damaged. The quake was also strongly felt at Manora Island near Karachi Harbour. The 94–feet–high lighthouse on Manora was damaged and a couple of pounds of mercury spilt.

This earthquake shook and vented the mud volcanoes of Hungol so much that the gases coming out of this volcanoes got ignited and flames rose several hundred feet in the air.

The news of fiery volcanoes erupting in Balochistan (1945) spread across India. There were also reports from RAF aircraft flying in from the west of volcanic eruptions in Lasbela State in Balochistan. So one Peter Martin–Kaye who was stationed at Korangi Creek Royal Air Force Flying Boat base and his friend Peter Woolf, who was also stationed at the Korangi Creek base, took two weeks leave from the base commander and set off on the 2nd of December, 1945 on an expedition along the Makran Coast on camels provided by the Wazir of Lasbela State to check out what had happened when the earthquake and tsunami struck. On reaching the location of three active mud volcanoes (which they called Chandragup, Ranagup and Rajagup), concluded that the quake had released a quantity of gas at that location which had ignited in a fiery eruption giving rise to the stories of volcanic eruptions.

Another account of these eruption come from V.P. Sondhi, who in 1947 also wrote in about the same volcanic phenomenon in the area near the mouth of the Hungol River in Baluchistan following the 1945 quake. According to Sondhi, the self-igniting plume of gas had erupted:
“with such great force that the flames leaped thousands of feet high into the sky”.

V.P. Sondhi also documented the emergence of three mud volcano islands in the Arabian Sea just off the coast of Makran. These off shore mud volcanoes didn't live long and the strong wave action of Arabian Sea dissolved the muddy islands within months. By the end of 1946 these mud volcanoes were completely gone.

The geological research says that the mud volcanoes emerging out of Arabian Sea are made from highly viscous mud with high gas content. The mud gets driven up by high buoyancy forces and over time, a high mud ridge or mountain forms out of the water.

A scientist named G. Delisle had described in 2002 the emergence of a new mud volcano island in March 1999 at about the same place, this time apparently not accompanied by an earthquake, but it was also destroyed by wave action a few months later.

Mud volcanoes are generally not considered to be dangerous. In some countries like Azerbaijan which has the largest concentration of mud volcanoes in the world, the gas eruptions from mud volcanoes are more frequent and violent than those in Pakistan, they are actually a tourist attraction. Should Pakistan do the same?

With the opening of N10 - Makran Coastal Highway in 2004, mud volcanoes of Balochistan are now within few hours reach from Karachi. The convenience of a world class highway is also bringing a constant stream of 'city slickers' to this once remote area. People are now climbing onto these sandy volcanoes in large numbers. Some preservation should be provided to these natural wonders otherwise the onslaught of tourist will deface the natural beauty.

Tourism should be allowed but within safe distance of these sandy monuments. I also recommend a visit to these volcanoes and not to mention the joy of travel on scenic Coastal Highway, which deserves a full post on its scenic route alone.

Credits and References:

Some of the photos for this article have been taken from here.
Rare Maps of Pakistan by F.S. Aijazuddin

Men are cleverer than women

Men are more intelligent than women by about five IQ points on average, [excuse me, I didn’t say that], making them better suited for “tasks of high complexity”, say the authors of a paper due to be published in the British Journal of Psychology.

Genetic differences in intelligence between the sexes helped to explain why many more men than women won Nobel Prizes or became chess grandmasters, the study by Paul Irwing and Professor Richard Lynn concludes.


Read this and shoot it down.

Updates:

Girls are more emotional

Men and Women

Shagufta Bano - Mano na Mano

While doing interpretership (in Russian Language) from National University of Modern Languages, Islamabad, we were taken to different publishing houses. Having tea after the presentation at one of the publishing houses, we got a chance to talk informally to the wonderful people there.

While talking with Dr. Farahat Naqi – the owner and brain behind the success of the concern – Dr. Shagufta Bano – one of my favorite teachers -- came under discussion. I believed and praised my teacher. Dr. Naqvi listened to my discourse for some time and finally raised his hands and said, “Please stop. Stop. I know her more than you do because she is my wife for last 30 years.”

I can’t caption this! Can you?
Caption by ~hedAyah~

Tragedy of Samjhauta Express

Adil Najam

In a tragic development - and what is clearly the most serious threat to recent headways in the India-Pakistan peace process - a train bound from India to Pakistan (Samjhota Express) caught fire, reportedly because of two crude home-made bombs which exploded. Over 60 people are reported dead, most of them Pakistanis returning home, but the death toll also includes many Indians, including some Indian officials.

Another casualty could be the recently revived India-Pakistan peace process. The dastardly incident comes days before Pakistani Foreign Minister Khursheed Kasuri was to arrive in New Delhi to move the peace process forward. Indian Railway Minister Lalu Prasad Yadav points out that “the aim is… to put hurdles into the path of the peace process that has started between the two neighbouring countries — India and Pakistan.” (Watch video report here).

Here are some details, according to the BBC: At least 64 people have been killed in a series of explosions and a fire on a Pakistan-bound train in the northern Indian state of Haryana, officials say. Passengers reported hearing two blasts as the train passed near Panipat, about 80km (50 miles) north of Delhi. The train - the Samjhauta Express - was part of a service taking passengers from Delhi to Lahore in Pakistan. A spokesman for Indian Prime Minister Manmohan Singh said the explosions were probably an “act of terror”. A number of other passengers were injured, and officials say the death toll may rise. The Samjhauta Express is one of two train services connecting India and Pakistan. After a two-year gap, it was reopened in 2004 as part of the peace process between the two countries.

Bloomberg adds the following information: The blasts, which occurred after 11 p.m. last evening, were caused by crude explosives and struck two coaches of the train, India’s Railways Minister Lalu Prasad told reporters today in a televised interview in New Delhi. Pakistan condemned the blasts, saying India must conduct a thorough investigation into the act of terrorism. The train service between Indian and Pakistan is used by people who can’t afford air travel between the nuclear-armed neighbors that fought three wars since independence from British rule in 1947 and started talks to improve relations in 2003. The divided Himalayan territory of Kashmir is at the center of a dispute between the two countries that claim the region in full….

“Preliminary investigations show most of the victims are Pakistanis,'’ Pakistan’s foreign ministry spokeswoman Tasnim Aslam said in a phone interview from capital Islamabad today. “We expect India to conduct a thorough inquiry to find out the reasons behind this act.'’ The Pakistan High Commission in the Indian capital is being informed about possible casualties, zonal railways official B.N. Mathur said. A railway guard manning a signal cabin on the route between Delhi and Attari heard two explosions when the train crossed the station near Panipat, a refinery town, Mathur told reporters from the blast site….

India had the responsibility of providing security to the train in its part of the country, Aslam said, refusing to comment on the impact of the blasts on peace talks between the two countries. “We don’t know the motive behind the blasts.”

Pakistan has recently seen a spate of bombings in its major cities, and even before this some in government were pointing towards a ‘foreign hand’ in these bombings. Both countries have long played this game of ‘blame the foreign hand’, including in the recent tragic train bombings in Mumbai. The impulse to do so at the first sign of trouble is a natural one in the sub-continent. Given the deep distrust that exists between the two, it may even be understandable. But irrespective of the short-term political gains such finger-pointing might gain, it is not a very useful way to deal with deep tensions. One certainly hopes that this will not slide to that level and if, indeed, the purpose of those who did this terrible act was to hurt the peace process, then both countries will work together to make sure that this does not happen.

It is a good sign that Pakistan has announced that the visit by the Pakistan Foreign Minister to India will not be canceled. The signals from the Pakistan Foreign Ministry are sober but reasonable. According to The News: Pakistan Foreign Minister Khurshid Kasuri Monday condemned a train blast in India which killed at least 66 people as a “horrendous act of terrorism” and said most of the victims were Pakistanis. Kasuri said he had asked the Indian government to investigate the incident overnight on a Samjhota Express. “It is a horrendous act of terrorism,” Kasuri told reporters during a function at the foreign office. “I would like the Indian government to investigate this incident. We are waiting for the results of the investigation,” he said. The minister said he had instructed the Pakistani High Commission in New Delhi to send staff to the site to help Pakistan nationals caught up in the blast.

The main leaders in India, including the Prime Minister and President, have also sent the right signals, including condolences to those who have died. The overtures from both sides are to focus on finding the terrorists who committed this atrocity. One hopes that their attentions will remain focussed on this purpose rather than succumbing to the impulse of scoring political points through the unwarranted politics of incrimination. Most of all, one hopes that neither country will allow the peace process to be derailed by this blast.

Love, Truth, Malice

Love between men and women is the foundation of a conjugal relationship. Tell us why you love your spouse? Opinions from cross section of cyber society (may be anonymous) in comment section will be brought up in the post (and comment deleted) or email.


Women

Reasons: Why I love my husband?


  • He is the love of my life.


  • He is the best person I know; very adoptive.


  • He has earned my trust and I know he will never leave me.


  • He cares and provides for me.

  • He sings to me constantly, making up the songs as he goes along.
  • He writes real songs for me and plays them on his guitar in bed.
  • After a fight, he always makes sure to heap loads of love on me to assure me that we are still going to be okay.
  • He is not too tough to cry in front of me.
  • He is beautifully sensitive and loving.
  • He needs me.
  • He makes up characters like the Invisible Monkeys and the Face Bug and then sicks them on me. (The Invisible Monkeys tickle and the Face Bug dances on your face and ears.)
  • He insists that I'm clever and compliments my work.
  • He buys me stuffed toys all the time. Even when I insist I have too many. He knows I don't mean it.
  • He always listens to me.
  • Every day he has some thing nice to say to me.
  • He always says that I am not chubby. He makes me believe that.

Reasons: Why I do not love my husband?

  • He does not trust me.


  • He has a big ego that does not let him budge.


  • He is selfish.


  • He does not brush his teeth.


  • He cares more for his parents then for me.


  • He comes home to sleep only; spends all quality time outside doing business and with friends.


  • He has a crush on every woman he meets.


  • He is adict.


  • He smells.

  • He is always comparing me with wives of others.
  • He is a cheat.

  • After 36 years of marriage, there are more things that I dislike about my husband than I like. He seems to live in his own world and I am just a part of it.


  • All he knows about me is that I have b****ts.


  • I thought he loved me but after marriage it came out that he married to get imigration papers. Now that he is settled, he is looking for even greener pastures.


  • My husband and me fight all the time.


  • He says that I have pimples on face, no lustre on it, circles round eyes.


  • My husband is a wonderful, charming, loving guy to every one, but when it comes to me, he can be a son of a …


Men

Reasons: Why I love my wife?

  • She has earned my full trust over time.


  • She is a wonderful p[erson and sincere friend.


  • She is very caring: helps me get ready for the day, day after day.


  • She takes care of our home.


  • She is respectful to my parents.


  • She is easy to to talk to and participate positively and keenly.

  • She is very beautiful.

  • I always find neat home, when I come back after work.


  • She cooks good.


  • She always calls me fom home to remind to take my lunch on time.


  • She has become my best friend over time; she listens, she shares.


Reasons: Why I do not love my wife?


  • She is very selfish and always thinks about herself.


  • She keeps telling our kids that I am not doing enough for them.


  • She thinks I have a lot of mony hidden from her and keeps on spnding recklessly.


  • She does not like sex. She sleeps with me only as a duty not as a passion.


  • She does not like my parents. (She does not like her parents either).


  • She keeps naging.


  • She does not need me; only needs my securities in life.


  • She sleeps too much.


  • She is always complaining.


  • She is never thankful or happy.


  • My wife will not do what I tell her to do but will do things what others tell her. BTW, I have never advised her with malice; never.

King’s Treatment


There are lessons in the first landscapes of every one's life. Mine was a vista of green paddy fields, smoking with Salt Range mist, against a setting of ribbon of River Jhelum which from distance looked like a shore of another land altogether. The rough, rugged hill range appeared uninviting against a sky withering with the morning, interrupted by the dawn's red and blue brush strokes. My first learning in life was also in the village.

In villages, people still live without assessable roads or other civic amenities of this modern age. No telephone or the Internet, even the electricity is the recent phenomenon; some are still without it. You see one village and you have seen all. This was the setting where I spent first twenty year of my life savoring the freedom of adulthood. It is where I decided what (and how) I wanted to do with life. It is where my mother, brothers and friends live. It is where I return whenever my active life allows me to. It is where I want to settle and spend my future.

My village is awe inspiring -- pollution free and quiet. Different shades and colors of waving crops and trees - solitary, in groves or avenues - beautify the landscape. The scene changes after the harvest. The air is always fresh and fragrant with the smell of earth. The only sound is singing of birds, ringing of cowbells and sighing of wind or some youth loudly singing Heer Waris Shah, Sassi Punun or Mirza Saheban at night. One sees butterflies fluttering, ladybirds creeping and squirrels jumping around. To me the place feels like a paradise.

My roots are in the village where no body seems to be in a hurry. Every time I go there, from the different cities where I happen to be living, I take small things like candies and toys for the kids of neighbors and my family in the village and they are so happy that the words cannot explain their delight. From the village I bring everything, and more than every thing I bring lot of love.

"I help my neighbors and my neighbors help me", is the philosophy of life in our village. Faith, sharing, contentment, grit, hard work and humor are few others. There are no marriage halls or other renting places. Daras (community centers where cultural diffusion takes place) are very useful 'institutions' for functions or for elders to sit and teach irreplaceable heritage of ideas to the younger generation. The learning that passed on to me in Dara turned out to be very precious: it was the legacy of the fable. Tandoor (Oven for backing bread) is still a meeting and talking place for women.

Guests of one family are shared by ever one at the time of marriage (or death). Hospitality is like one of the cultural benchmark, as villagers strongly believe that a guest comes with the blessings of Allah Almighty. Pull a hay cart into the shad, to rest, to dream. You shall be served with hookka (Hubbell-bubble), water and food. Cooing crows are still considered as a symbol for the arrival of guests in my village.

From our village, a group of seven students used to go to nearby town for attending school (and then college). Ghulam Muhammad was my buddy in the group. After completing the education, my dreams become out of control and took me on the darker roads of the life whereas Ghulam Muhammad, equipped with degree from Faisalabd Agricultural University, started progressive farming in the same village. He was a hardworking, gentleman, economically very sound and ambitious. Ghulam Mohammed's father soon started getting proposals for the marriage of his son from many wealthy landlord families of the area. But, my friend married his cousin: uneducated daughter of one of his poorest uncles and is living happily ever since. Village society is still simple, cohesive and based on similarities.

This time when I was coming back from the village, lot of people - family members, peers and neighbors - came to see me off as always. My mother had packed my vehicle with vegetables (fresh from the farm), palsies, atta (floor), and husked rice and even live chickens. Every body was advising me to consume every thing back in the city, as "they are fresh, pure, nutritious and desi". On my way back, a question kept coming in my mind: how much time this simple society will take to become complex and when will 'development' change the outlook of the villagers to life?

A cluster of memories - some overlapping, some isolated - of 'the village boy' I once always stay with me. I am a result of my childhood experiences. After having knocked on all the doors of opportunity that come in my way in life, I want to settle and spend my future in the village?
(This is what I have brought from the village in addition to the answers I had gone to find.)

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Historic Trilogy

The first thought that came into my mind after visiting Okara can be described by four words: milk, butter, mammals and farms. Peers also told me the same. Besides Harappan ruins, I did not know the area. But one thing I did know, though, was that I should be happy to say goodbye to the place. Two years later, I felt drawn to the area and its people and it was very hard for me to part. There is so much to be seen, so much to be done. Above all, it has spirited, sincere and full-of-love people living in Gogera, Dipalpur and Pakpattan historic trilogy. The distances in the hinterland are short but the landscape is so enormous that it had to be studied in parts like a large mural seen by a child.

One of the first places I came to know after settling down is a village Thatta Ghulamka Dheroka near Okara. The unique claim of the village to international fame is the dolls and toys made by village women that are a collectors' delight all over the world. Dolls made in the village have traveled to International Dolls Museum in Amsterdam and also have been put on display in the EXPOs Germany and Japan. Earlier, the dolls participated in the International Toy Fair in Nuremberg. These dolls show how culture goes beyond simple works of art and becomes a collaboration among applied and natural sciences as well as other forces that affect our lives.

Murals are painted on the parameter mud walls in the village where doll collectors and people interested in sustainable development and rural heritage come and stay as paying guests. The village folks still consider cooing crows as symbol of the arrival of the guests. Architectural competitions are held annually when the best mud house is selected. The Chief Harappan Explorer Dr. Mark Kenoyer had the place on the jury in competition held last July. Two full time German volunteers, Dr Norbert Pintsch and Dr Senta Siller, and village people are working together to change the life and outlook in this peaceful hamlet. Whenever I visited the village, I saw something new, something different, which the villagers do to make difference in a place where they belong.
When going to the village you pass through Gogera -- a famous place where Ahmed Khan Kharral broke jail during the War of Independence in 1857, and the place where Extra Assistant commissioner Berkley was defeated and killed by the resilient locals.

East of Okara, there are four places which provide you reason enough for going there again and again: Malka Hans, Pakpattan, Dipalpur and Sher Garh. Each one of these places holds thousands of intriguing secrets.

There are at least two folk romances that unfailingly echo in the mind of anyone who let his fancy and feet roam around this historic tract. Waris Shah composed his classic folk romance Heer Rangha during his stay in Malka Hans - a 700 year-old town. 'Hujra Waris Shah Da' located in an ancient mosque, constructed during the rule of Hans tribe, and the remains of five-story temple of Parnami faction of Hindus in Malka Hans, merit attention, which has not being given. The temple cannot be described in words or images. I sat on the heap of rubbles in the courtyard of the temple where people dry grains, keep the animals, and wondered.

As per another famous lore, the nearby town Hujra Shah Muqeem is the place where Saheban is supposed to have visited and prayed "sunjain howan gallian which Mirza yar phire" (the streets should be deserted for my lover Mirza to roam around). The tale is mentioned in famed Punjabi love story Mirza Saheban, but there is no historic evidence that Jatti Saheban came to the place and prayed. Both these romances are vital part of our widespread oral literature, Recitation of Heer, in a single and vibrant tone. It is an amazing phenomenon. There is another love story set in Mughal period living village Akbar near Gogera. A girl jumped into the grave when people were burying her lover and insisted that she be buried alive with him. The grave is still there on the citadel, accumulating debris of ages, in the village.

Pakpattan and Dipalpur are two of the oldest living cities of the South Asia and strategic sites of the past. A complexity of ideas, directly related to evolution of civilization in this part of the world, seems encircling these places. Besides kings and sultans - from Sabuktigine to Akbar -- great men like Ibn-e-Batuta, Amir Kusro, Gru Nanik and Waris Shah visited at least one or both of these places. One of the thriving trade routes of the past passed through Adjodhan (name officially changed by Mughal King Akbar to Pakpattan due to its association with Saint Baba Farid ud Din Masod Ganj Shakar). Now the original builders might not even recognize these towns if they come back. These locations are not mentioned in travel guides, but anyone who wants to re-live the past can go there and know more about the archives.

In Sher Garh, you see a towering shrine of a saint Muhammad Ibrahim Kirmani Daud-e-Sani Bandgi. Sit for a while in the restful compound of the shrine and somebody will offer you food and some other might tell you a tale: the mason from Kasur, who installed the heavy pinnacle on the shrine, asked Shah Abdul Mou'ali to give him the best buffalo in his heard as charge of expert services to fix the pinnacle. The mason demanded this when he was standing at the top of the edifice of shrine before putting the final touches. Shah Abdul Mou'ali, who was the direct descendant of the saint, obliged the artisan and only then he came down, happy. Those were the days of commitments and reciprocal rights. Before turning to Sher Garh from National Highway near Renala Khurd, one may visit the still functional Ganga Hydroelectric Station installed by the famous philanthropist and engineer Sir Ganga Ram.

All these places in the trio introduced me to wonders and legions of what may be called middle ground of cultural fusion of the present Punjab. The area is a gold mine for history seekers, spiritual and curious travelers. You may find much more than what you hear or read. It pays to get out into the countryside and talk to ordinary people. People of the area are eager to help - on their own expense - when you ask them. I found volunteer 'guides' who were forthcoming with a wealth of information, from history to myths prevalent in the area. Where is Qaboola? Ask anybody when you are riding a bike with haversack and water bottle on your sides. The replies will always be same: nearby.

The ironic counter point is the lack of attention in maintaining the bits and pieces of unique heritage - the resource base of tourism. The neglect may be attributed to lack of awareness, education, coordination between authorities, economic constrains and/or simply the natural hazards. The magnificent vistas of a land of plans, fields and orchards have to be opened to the rest of the world. There is a need for information in the form of travel guide writing, pure travel journalism, travel book writing and geographical description in form of maps. No ordinary coldness of phrasing can express the surprise and delight, with which one makes acquaintance with the sites. Their perspective gives you a wonderful sense of being there. In fact, that is my recommendation: be there.

If a Blog Falls

If a Blog Falls

Paris: 519 km

Owais Mughal

In my childhood I had read a travel-story titled 'Paris 209 km' and I was very fascinated by it. This year (February 2001), when I finally got a chance to visit Paris, I found Paris was 519 km away and hence the above title.

At one of my previous jobs we built machinery that measured part dimensions up to great accuracy. I got a chance to travel to France after one of the machines that we had sold there developed fault and needed servicing.

My flight was Detroit-Amsterdam-Lyon. Lyon is the second largest city of France. From Lyon, I was to be accompanied by a technician who had been working on this machine for the past 2 weeks without success. This technician was an ex-foot ball player, 6-feet tall and with a great sense of humor. His name was Kenneth and he always reminded me of the character ‘Hagrid’ from Harry Potter, minus the stupidity of course.

The factory that we were visiting was located in the foothills of French Alps in a small town called 'Cluses' on the French-Swiss border. Until then I had only seen the Alps in the Hollywood movie "Won Rayon's Express". When I saw them in reality, they looked really majestic. I also passed within five hundred yards of Geneva, Switzerland but I couldn't go into the city, as I didn't have the Swiss visa.

At the factory, we were able to fix the machine after a few hours of intense troubleshooting. This machine could measure dimensions up to ten thousandths of an inch and was quite susceptible to electrical noise. Once again the EMF theory came to my rescue as I found a huge hydraulic press just 10 feet away from our machine was emitting electromagnetic noise through the air into our machine. This was the first time in my life that I truly believed in Electro-magnetics. Before that I could never have thought that air can be a medium for electromagnetic propagation. I shielded my circuitry with some aluminum foil and provided some solid grounding to the chassis, and was able to reduce the noise voltage from 30V spikes down to 20mV. After the machine got fixed, I became relaxed and talked to Kenneth to drive us to Paris. Kenneth had also not seen Paris yet and I told him all these fantasizing stories of Paris including ‘An American ware-wolf in Paris’. After that Kenneth immediately got ready to drive us to Paris. Kenneth had rented a 4x4 Opel jeep. We left the town of ‘Cluses’ around 9:00 p.m. It was a clear night with full moon and to my surprise I was able to find a French radio station broadcasting Indian songs. They were playing the song ‘Noorie’ in Bally Sagoo re-mix. Kenneth was making funny faces because he couldn’t understand it, but I was enjoying it very much. Thanks to Kenneth’s crazy Detroit style driving, we were able to cover 519 km in just 4 hours. We visited the selected few landmarks of Paris like Eiffel tower, Champs Elyses etc. I was especially impressed by Eiffel Tower. More than 900 feet high this landmark was built 114 years ago. When French people were laying foundations for Eiffel tower, people in Indian sub-continent were only laying foundations for the first science foundation in the universities (1889-Sir Syed Ahmed Khan’s Science foundation).

It was Valentine's Day when I climbed the Eiffel tower. Saw many hot French couples openly showing affection for each other. :) Anyways after a short photo session at the landmarks of Paris we drove back to the Factory in Cluses, and watched the machine run fine for the next twenty four hours.

After I declared the machine fit, I took a passenger train back to Lyon. French trains are very comfortable and punctual. I had a ticket for second class, but didn't see a class difference in people as is obvious in Asian countries. Mahmood-o-Ayaz were sitting next to each other.

The Russian space station 'Mir' was very visible from France in those days. Mir had been brought down to a lower orbit before it would crash into earth sometimes later. At night it was the brightest star in the sky, so bright as if someone was showing a torch light on earth to find something. It was fascinating to see Mir and the Moon side by side. And looking at the coming demise of Mir Space station, reminded me of Mir Taqi Mir’s sher:

Jis Sar ko ghroor aaj hai yaaN Taj wari ka
Kal os par phir shor hai yaheeN noha gari ka

MacDonald's at France are also a complete story in them selves. Even though called Fast food, one should feel lucky if they could get their food in 15-20 minutes.

After a night's stay in Lyon, I flew back to Detroit and ended my memorable trip to France.

Reblog: The Art of Quit Smoking

www.theartofquitting.com is a Dutch website which encourage visitors to contribute a quit smoking message in the most interesting way they can create. Did you know that China has the largest smokers in term of numbers, believed to be around 300 million while the total smokers in the world exculding China barely reach 200 million. Smoking in the middle kingdom seems to be out of control and the government seems to encourage the populaion to smoke, one of the many reason being that state company owns cigarette factory and tax contribute a large portion of the national coffer. Unlike western countries, cigarette companies comes in weird names such as “longevity” and many more. Imagine instead of Dunhill or Marlboro, there is this longevity” brand that sounds like every puff increase your life span.

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Men and Women

Click on the resultant link and find out the mystery or better still try to solve that. (BTW, so far no one has been able to solve this mystery!)

What Can You Say on This!



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Seach at Google; Confess

If you've never searched yourself in Google, you should. Sometimes it can be very enlightening, sometimes embarrassing, always interesting. I type in my name (S A J Shirazi) every once in a while to see if anybody's talking about me, or if Google is indexing my pages, or just to waste time when I'm really supposed to be doing something else. So, with that being said, I found this cool T-shirt via SearchEngineLowdown.com:

A Walk through Empress Market

Owais Mughal

Clicking on most of the photos in this article will take you to their source websites and larger image sizes.


On my recent trip to Pakistan, I tried to re-live some of the fondest memories of my early youth. One of them was daily travel in public buses during my college days. In order to relive that experience, I decided to take a trip to Empress Market by bus.

Photo to the left shows Empress Market. I took this photo from the overhead pedestrain bridge on the morning of Jan 11, 2007.

At Karaimabad market bus stop, I made a hand gesture to an approaching route 5C bus. The bus driver made eye contact with me and acknowledged by slowing down. The norm in Karachi is that a bus never comes to a full halt for a single ’sawari’ (passenger) because monetary profits from a single passenger fare is not worth breaking the engine motion. Therefore when bus slowed down to a speed of approximately 5 kmph, I quickly jumped in by grabbing on to the hand rail. It was a proud moment for me to realize that after all these years I have not forgotten the art of climbing onto a moving bus. I looked around the bus with the face of a conquerer but no one paid any attention to me so I meekly sat down at the first available seat.

Photo to the above right shows birds eye view of Empress Market. This photo is courtesy of Ali Zasami.

5C bus dropped me at the Preedy Street stop near Empress Market. Empress Market is named in commemoration of the jubilee of Queen of England who at the time of construction of this building (1884-1889) was also the ‘Empress’ of India.


Photo to the left shows the southern entrance of Empress Market.

My plan today was to walk to the Rainbow Center and buy some music CDs. There was all kinds of business going on in and around Empress Market. It was a scene of total chaos and still everyone knew what they were doing. First I passed through a series of road-side dentists. Some of them had Chinese sounding names because Chinese dentist have a reputation of being best in the trade. Empress Market area boasts a large concentration of Chinese dentists. Some of these dentists had strategically placed their salesmen out on the sidewalk from where they were luring in customers. I was offered a full set of dentures for Rs 1000 without even looking at my teeth. I also saw a super human size set of dentures on display which was so big that it could’ve easily fit in a horse jaw.
Photo to the right is the Empress Market Clock Tower facade in gray scale.
Before I go further with my account of Empress market trip I want to mention a ’sher’ which has suddenly come to my mind while writing these lines:
kal jin daaNtoN se huNstay the khil khil
aaj wohi dard se rulaatay haiN hil hil

(yesterday the teeth which made me laugh as hee hee
today make me cry with pain as hoo hoo)
After I survived the dentists alley with all my teeth intact, I entered the historic Empress Market. Despite the traffic congestion in this area, the imposing structure of Empress Market is hard to ignore. It was designed by the Karachi municipal engineer, James Strachan in neo-Gothic, Victorian-Gothic or what is now called as Indo-Gothic styles and is one of the best known landmarks of Karachi.
Photo to the left shows a night shot of Empress Market lit in monumental lighting.
The foundation stone of the building was laid on November 10, 1884 by Sir James Fergusson, the then Governer of Bombay. Foundation work of the building was done by the contracting firm of Mr. J.S. Attfield of Lahore and the superstructure was built by Messrs. Wali Mahomed Jiwun and Dulloo Khejo. Empress Market was inaugurated on March 21, 1889. At inauguration, Empress market had accommodation for 280 shops. The day I visited, there was ‘hamara Karachi’ festival going on and as part of the festivities, Pakistan Rangers had brought out their official pipe band to play merry tunes infront of the Empress Market Clock Tower. This clock tower is 140 feet high with a large chiming clock, and skeleton iron dials placed on all four sides. When I looked up, I was happy to see that clock was not olny working but also showing the correct time. For record keeping purposes, this was at 11:50 a.m. on the morning of January 11, 2007. Proof lies in the top most photo of this article.
Photo to the right shows a spice sellar inside Empress Market.
Across the road, thirty or so school children were sitting under a make-shift tent. They were also put on display as part of hamara Karachi festivities. I don’t know why were they sitting there and what was their aim for the day.
For those who are interested in knowing Karachi’s role in Nationalist movements of India, Empress Market is located on the site where native sepoys were strapped to the mouth of cannons and blown to pieces as punishment for their involvement in the first war of independence in 1857.
Photo to the left shows herb oils for sale in wine bottles in Empress Market. The equipment to produce herb oil (e.g. crushed almond oil) is also visible in this photo.

After I crossed the Empress Market proper, I reached the ‘neelam gali’ (bidding alley). Here all the shop keepers had megaphones in their hands and were selling small and petty item to highest bidders. A large number of simpletons had gathered around these shops and were buying things as if they were going out of fashion. While I was walking by, many shopekeepers tried to lure me into buying stuff by offering wrist watches for as low as Rs 20.

Infront of bidding alley there was a group of quacks selling cure for all worldly and heavenly problems. They had a solution for all kinds of diseases ranging from minor head-aches, to dwindling democracy in the country, to fixing ‘zalim mahboob’ (unkind beloveds) to curing AIDS. Somebody was also selling aphrodisiacs extracted from snakes.

Photo to the right is from Dawn, and shows a snake medicine stall in Empress Market area.
I was totally over whelmed by so much action going on around me. But this was not the end of it. As I turned the corner from Preedy Street to Mansfield Street (now called Syedna Burhanuddin Road), I saw a big anti-encroachment police operation going on against the Inter-city bus terminals. City government was trying to move these bus companies out of the city and there was resistance. But just 300 yards away where I was standing, life was as normal and serene as could be. I carelessly walked into the Rainbow Center. Time was around noon but still only couple of shops were open. I quickly bought the music I was looking for a walked out towards the famous Student Biryani restaurant (shown in photo to the left). This famous restaurant is located at a walking distance behind the Rainbow Center.
From here I walked to the Bohri bazaar, made a big walking round and came back to the bus stand at Frere Street (now called Dr. Daudpota Road). This time I took a Route 4L bus (shown in the photo to the right) and reached home after paying a one-way fare of Rs 7. During my college days in 1987-89, this fare used to be Rs 0.30 (with student ID). Another number that I want to share is that Empress Market project cost Rs 120000 to built. Inflation is on the rise guys.

One last history lesson, before I key-off is that Mr. Pitchard, the then commissioner, at the openng ceremony of Empress Market pointed out that only one market in whole British Presidency surpasses Empress Market in beauty and grace. This was a big tribute to Empress Market at that time.

Trivia: The only other market which according to Mr. Pitchard surpassed Empress Market of 1889 in architecture and facilities was Crawford Markets of Mumbai.
Views of Empress Market through the history





















We owe the Armenians

Kalpana Sahni

Ashot Hindilyan graciously offered to show us around the Armenian Quarter of old Jerusalem.

“Is your name linked to India?” I asked.

“Naturally, -hindi- Hindilyan. At some point of time my family traded with India. So much so I am told that I even look like an Indian. Do I?”

“Y-e-e-s, I guess so. Your nose is definitely not an Armenian nose...”

A professor at Birzeit University, Dr Hindilyan took us to every nook and corner of old Jerusalem’s Armenian quarter with its narrow cobbled streets lined with stone houses, the library, the cemetery. We witnessed the ancient church service in the 11th century Armenian Church of St James. As special guests, we were shown some church treasures. These were cotton block-printed altar curtains depicting the life of the Holy Family – all made in Madras! One of the most treasured ones was an enormous block-printed curtain with images of plants. Below each image was its name in Armenian script. Hindilyan read out – imli and looked up as if to ask if it made any sense.

“Of course, that’s an imli tree!”

We tried to identify the other plants too. Why anybody would make a veritable encyclopaedia of South Indian plants for an Armenian church’s altar curtain is anybody’s guess. Perhaps some Armenian with a passion for botany had guided the block printers while writing down the names in Armenian script for them to copy. This particular altarpiece was made in the 18th century.

Well, this episode spurred my curiosity. I remembered a Mr Khachaturian who, long long ago, had been my cousin’s landlord in Bombay. So I started foraging for more information.

We are ignorant about our Armenian links that go back to the second century. Armenians had once traded in many parts of India and their settlements were scattered along the coastline: Bombay, Surat, Madras, Calcutta, and later in Agra, Lucknow, Delhi, Lahore, Gwalior. Persia’s Shah Abbas encouraged Armenians from Persia in the 17th century to trade with India. Their numbers swelled and soon they set up schools in Madras and Calcutta. The first Armenian language periodical was printed in Madras in 1794 and not in Armenia. It was the British who gradually forced them out, feeling threatened by their commercial expertise.

The Ain-i-Akbari mentions numerous Armenians who had been invited by Akbar to settle down in Agra. Mariam Zamani Begum, one of Akbar’s wives, was allegedly an Armenian, as were the Chief Justice, Abdul Hai (in Armenian ‘hai’ means Armenian), the Lady Doctor, Juliana, and several others.

Some claim that Sarmad, an outstanding Sufi poet of the 17th century, was an Armenian Jew, while others that he was Armenian Christian. He arrived in India in 1654 from Kashan in Persia, became a bhikshu, and later turned to Sufism. Better known as the Naked Sufi, he attracted followers from all faiths and classes. He wrote in one of his Persian quatrains, “I obey the Koran. I am a Hindu priest and a monk; I am a Rabbi Jew, I am an infidel and I am Muslim.”

Among his disciples was Dara Shikoh, the prince philosopher and humanist. Aurangzeb killed both Dara Shikoh and Sarmad. To this day people lay floral tributes on the grave of Sarmad located near Delhi’s Jama Masjid.

The Zamzama canon outside the Lahore museum was made in 1761 by an Armenian gun-maker, Shah Nazar Khan, for Ahmed Shah Durrani, the Afghan invader of the Punjab. The Sikhs later captured it.

What a lot we owe the Armenians! An Armenian lady doctor opened the first nursing home in Calcutta; an Armenian conducted the first archaeological digs. There are so many unsung Armenian heroes in our history who fought the British alongside us. Colonel Jacob Petrus commanded Scindia of Gwalior’s Army for 70 years (1780-1850) against the British. Mesrovb Jacob Seth writes:

“His reputation was so high and he was so respected that the entire city of Gwalior mourned his death in 1850. Thousands including the nobility and military attended his funeral, and guns were fired ninety-five times from the ramparts of the historic Gwalior Fort, to mark his age.”

Then there was the legendary Gorgin Khan, Commander-in-Chief of Mir Qasim, the Nawab of Bengal’s army, and Movses Manook, a Colonel in the Nizam of Hyderabad’s Army. The list of Armenian military officers is long. There were historians too. Tovmas Khojamalyan wrote a history of India in 1768. It included the period of British rule, which could provide a very important source of alternative information, especially in the chapters about the infamous ‘black hole’ tragedy.

Was this a one-way traffic? Not at all! The 4th century Syrian historian Zenob Glak mentions that from the 2nd to the 4th century AD there existed in the Armenian area of Taron, an Indian settlement of some 15,000 Indians, which prospered for over two hundred years and consisted of 20 Indian villages. They were wiped out with the coming of Christianity to Armenia. A Toran village by the name of Hindkastan existed until the early 20th century as well as other names – Hindukhanum, Hindubek and Hindumelik.

Sharing Life and Not the Secrets

Everyone has secrets in personal life. Those secrets people do not share with any one no matter what. Situation gets out of the ordinary when deeper feelings are withheld between life partners – those living together, having common dreams and goals. Does sharing of the private things by husband give his wife power over the former? Or does holding back from each other spoil relations and home milieu that is the basis of trust and dependence.

People have deeply personal or even ordinary secrets they do not share with any one because they think that the revelation may make them vulnerable. It may give the partner some power over them. But, power is abstract, an influence one can exercise over others.

Consider this example: The husband shares with is his wife something about his own brothers, sisters or parents. Say, he tells his wife, "Dear, we need to go to them more often, we need to take care of mother or an upcoming marriage of sister's daughter."

The wife replies, "You have already done so much for each one of them. You have always been taking care of everything. Now it is high time that they should take care of themselves and you should concentrate more on your own home. Our children are also growing up." Unconsciously, with that a few unthinking, conclusive sentences, the wife stop her husband from sharing any more on the subject. So, in the situation, the husband may begin to secretly set aside money to save for taking care of his parents. In doing so, the first step is taken: a secret is withheld. In the years to come, the husband will begin to hesitate to share with his wife because he does not want to feel powerless.

Wives keep secrets from their husbands as well. The wife wants to buy a new microwave oven, or wants to change old curtains or aging furniture. So, she asks her husband, "Dear, we need to go in for a new microwave." The husband replies from over the file he has brought from office to work home, "We cannot afford it." Unconsciously, the husband imposes his authority and the wife feels she is no more in command of the financial situation. So, in the situation just described, the wife may begin to secretly keep away money from her household budget to save for a microwave oven, for curtains or furniture items. In doing so, again sharing is stopped.

Sounds like a storm in a teacup? But, consider what happens around and you will find that withholding of secrets start from just about as minor incidents, events, not necessarily having financial implications. Things keep adding over time. Personal feelings are more fragile than we realize. People feel the loss of power very easily. It does not take much to draw back and hold secrets. Sometime, one look, one gesture from the spouse is enough. Whenever anything is withheld, behind it is an unspoken plea: You do not understand my needs, my fears, my hopes, my wishes, my aspirations.

And behind every reaction is an unspoken attitude. When the husband instantly replies, we cannot afford a microwave oven; he also says without words, I do not care if you are inconvenienced. Instead, if he were to put down his work for a moment, nod sympathetically and ask, what do you think would be easier on our pockets — repairing this one or going for a new one? This way he could have shown his involvement with her predicament, yet draw her attention to his.

Likewise, when the wife smiles disbelievingly and replies, "You have already done enough for everyone," she is also communicating wordlessly, "I do not care about your family." Instead, if she were to say quietly, "Would you like to talk about it? How should we be able to balance everything out? “She would have shown him that she is with him in his concerns and he would not feel the need to retreat.

What should be done in situation like this and so many others like this? The husband and wife each can bring strength to a relationship. Without one or the other, the relationship would not exist. So, neither should feel disempowered by the other. Rather, when one partner is seeking, is doubtful, is troubled, the other should share his or her power constructively, encouragingly, supportively rather than further restricting, suppressing or limiting the already-troubled partner. Once couples understand this idea of individual power and that each contributes his or hers to the relationship, their going gets a lot easier. And it does not need a degree in physiology.

The next step is to become involved and listen. For example, when the wife wants to talk out her needs, is it so important for the husband to continue what he is doing; watching television or reading newspaper? Or, when the husband wants to talk, is it necessary for the wife to continue whatever she happens to be doing? The most important thing is to stop everything and listen. The listening partner has a false idea of time — the idea that If I do not finish this now, I will never finish it.

This makes the relationship functional rather than loving. Priority must be to make time to listen to each other. It may mean a messier house or missing your favorite TV program, but it will certainly make for a more sharing and caring relationship with no troubled, fearful, unresolved secrets hovering like invisible barriers in the mind.

After having lived my own life and seeing so many others in my circle, one more step that comes to mind is equally important. Never assume that you know your spouse inside-out. When the wife talks about buying a new microwave and the husband thinks "Oh, there she goes again, always wanting to spend money!" He does not share his feelings; he holds it back with his cynicism. Similarly, when the husband talks about his parents and the wife thinks, "Oh, he is at it again." She does not share openly. She holds it back with her dislike.

Finally, always put yourself in the shoes of the others. By imagining how it feels, the listening partner jerks himself or herself to awareness of his or her feelings. And the best way to use it is by sharing it! As much as a good relationship is a cozy co-existence where you live and let live, it is also a trusting, concerned, open-hearted co-existence where you live and help live.

Haqooq-e-MardaaN - Men's Rights

Adil Najam



I received a couple of emails with this picture today, and then saw it posted by Vaqas on Metroblog Lahore. A great picture by Awais Lodhi. We at ATP have a long-standing fascination with rickshaws. But, this, of course, is about political commentary, not just about rickshaws.

My best attempt at a translation of the ‘writing on the rickshaw’ is:

Addressed to Honorable General Musharraf Sahib. Accept my congratulations on the passage of the women’s rights bill. Now, please, also give us a bill on Men’s rights. We will be greatful. It is very difficult to drink these days.

Must confess, I am not fully sure how the last line fits. Please suggest a better translation if you will. Or offer commentary on this commentary.

Understanding Women

Understanding Women