Chappar Rift
October 31, 2006
Today we will introduce a historic and scenic railway route which once existed in the Balochistan province and Chappar Rift was considered as its main attraction.
The ruling gradient of this track was 1 in 40 with a maximum altitude of about 6000 ft above seal level. What made the railway route through Chappar Rift an engineering marvel was the overcoming of two significant geological hurdles in the area. The first hurdle was an 8 kilometer long mud gorge made of gypsum clay. Since gypsum is not a hard material, laying rail track on this gypsum floor was a challenge.
The second geological obstacle on this route was the Chappar Rift itself. It is a 5 kilometer wide cleft with hills, as high as hundreds of feet on either side. Look at the photo to the right. It shows how two sides of the Chappar Rift were bridged. If you look carefully, you can spot an approaching train in the photo. Look just above the trussed bridge. The Railway line was laid negotiating and surmounting these natural hurdles. The salient features of the project included almost 2 km of tunneling, a seven span via duct and a 250 ft high bridge. In the photo to the left, this bridge and the viaduct are visible in center of the gorge. 
Chappar Rift is considered a freak of a nature. Look at the photo to the left. It shows Chappar Rift from the north. It was formed when a mountain split open in two parts after an earthquake in the area. The nature had carved these two parts so perfectly that from a distance the gorge appeared to be mating parts of a jig-saw puzzle. As the rail track entered Chappar Rift area it had no feasible foundation to be laid on the mountain edge.
As normal convention of that time, if tunnel work was started from either side, it would have taken a long time and effort to finish the project. Therefore instead of constructing the tunnels in the usual way, the engineers adopted an expedient way of tunneling by driving openings (adits) into the side of the cliff at various points, and then cutting the tunnel right and left of these openings until the various sections met. 
The photo to the rigt shows how this process was achieved. Also note a standing person in the photo to the left. Since mechanized elevators were not available, these openings were created by lowering men down by ropes several hundred feet from the top of the cliff until they reached the point where the work for an opening was to be started. The workers then drove crowbars into the perpendicular sides of the cliff in order to get the necessary support for a platform from which the blasting operations could be carried on. Six of these openings were made on one side of the cliff and six on the other. Altogether there is a collection of 1.95 km (6400 ft) of tunnels in the rift.
The icing on the cake in this project was the construction of a 225 ft high bridge. The design and calculations for this bridge were the most difficult for the period when it was constructed. The highest pier was 90 ft from top to bottom, and the weight of iron girders alone was 600 tons. The bridge consisted of seven 40 ft long and one 150 ft long girder span which was used over the deepest part of the rift.To build this bridge, the executive Engineer of the project named Captain scott, borrowed two similar spans which were built out as cantilevers from each side of the abyss. When this temporary span had met in the middle, Scott built his permanent span on top, afterward removing the false work. The whole work was completed without the loss of a single life.
The bridge was opened by the Duchess of Connaught on 27th March, 1887 in the presence of Duke, Lord Roberts, and a distinguished company of people. The occasion was marked by the explosion of 20 mines. The bridge was named after the Duchess who praised it as the most glorious piece of work in the subcontinent. From that day on the bridge came to be known as the Louise Margaret Bridge. 
The Railway line served as an laternate route to Quetta for about 55 years. On the night of July 10, 1942 there was a flash flood in the area which swept away the scree bank in the Chappar Rift. With the scree slope washed away there was nothing left for the railway to be laid upon. It is said that water level reached upto 30 ft in the mud-gorge area and it caused wide spread erosion of rail foundations.
The railway route through Bolan Pass had stabilized over all these years in terms of weather as well as security. This left the importance of a longer rail route through Chappar Rift to non important issue. Therefore in 1943 it was decided that the railway line between Zardalu and Bostan which carried only one train a week, should be closed down. The decision was carried out in the same year and the track was finally uprooted. The photo to the left shows how in 1944 the Louise Margaret Bridge was being taken down after this section was closed down. 133 km of track between Sibi, Harnai and Khost was operational until early 2006. 
The track is operationally (but not officially) closed due to damaged bridges. There is a chance that Sibi-Khost route will become operational again.Now that which was once my domain,
If someone wants to visit the area to explore the leftover remains of Chappar rift railway, there is now a gravel road that goes from Bostan to Harnai and passes through the Chappar Rift. A portion of this road is shown in the photo to the left. The photo also shows the north end of the mud gorge tunnel. Most of the time the road is nothing but the embankment of the old abandoned Chappar Rift broad gauge railway line. On the way the road goes through at least three railway tunnels. Then there is a Chai Khana (tea shop) in the middle of no-where. One can find stone boundry pillars engraved NWR (North Westen Railway), holding poles for the sunshade of this ramshackle tea shop. 
The piers of a number of bridges including the Margaret Louise Bridge are still there as also some tell tale signs of railway stations. The Nari river valley including the areas of Harnai, Khost and Spintangi produces a lot of fresh fruits & vegetables. These are transported by trucks to Quetta and other places over the Chappar Rift. People associated with this freight service form the customers of this out-of-no-where Chai Khana because there is hardly any local population around.
References and Acknowledgements:
1. Couplings to Khyber by P.S.A Berridge, 1968
2. Hundred Years of Pakistan Railway, M.B.K Malik, 1962
3. Mr. Iqbal Samad khan, ex CEO Pakistan Railways, for his email/verbal account of Chappar rift travel
4. Mr. Nick Lera, for many of the photo of this article as well his email account of Chappar Rift travel. He also corrected some of the mistakes I had made in an earlier write-up of this article.
5. Mr. J.F. Andrist for his email account of Chappar Rift travel.
6. Mr. Jeff Bounds for his email account of Chappar Rift travel.
7. Afghanistan Railways: A dream coming true
8. Mike's Railway History
9. Chappar Rift Photo Album - A collection of photos that appear in this article.
If you want to learn more about Pakistan Railways, then feel free to join the 'Pakistan Railway (PR)' discussion group. Everything and anything related to PR is discussed here e.g. preserving of Pakistan's rail heritage, steam locomotives, sharing of photos and news, time tables etc. You can join the discussion group here.
Labels: Owais Mughal
posted by Shirazi @ 8:57 AM,
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Dengue Fever Epidemic Lahore Updates
October 30, 2006
The City District Government Lahore has made the city railway station and its adjoining areas as focal point for its campaign against the feared dengue fever epidemic as the CDGL officials claim that the mosquito causing the disease has shifted to Punjab through passengers who came from Sindh to celebrate Eid here.
At a meeting of the CDGL authorities held here on Sunday with DCO Muhammad Ijaz in the chair, EDO (health) Dr Inamul Haq claimed that the ‘aedes’ mosquito shifted from Sindh when people from there came to Punjab on the eve of Eid.
So far 2,000 dengue cases have been detected across the country, most of them in Karachi and Hyderabad.
Dr Haq said all localities adjoining the city railway station and of northern Lahore like Misri Shah, Shadbagh, Naulakha Bazaar, Railway Road, Lunda Bazaar, Badami Bagh and Chah Miran had been declared sensitive and were being fumigated with fog spray.
Out of a total of 1,650 lady health workers in the provincial metropolis, 35 had been deputed in Misri Shah for creating awareness about the disease and precautionary measures, he said.
He also claimed that 11 mobile teams had been formed for prevention of dengue fever and provision of specialist doctors, and laboratories at all state-run hospitals had been set up where the required stock of medicines had also been provided.
Chief Minister Pervaiz Elahi has, meanwhile, directed health department officials to take effective steps for controlling dengue virus in the province and ensure availability of medicines for its treatment, says a handout.
MINISTER: Health Minister Dr Tahir Ali Javed claimed that his department had completed all the arrangements. He said the availability of necessary medicines in all public sector hospitals would be ensured.
The minister said the health services director had been appointed focal person for prevention and control of dengue fever, and he would be responsible to have a close liaison with the medical superintendents of all the public sector hospitals, EDOs (health) of the province. He would also contact the allied departments, arrange procurement of all required items for the safety of medical and paramedical staff treating dengue victims. {Dawn}
posted by Shirazi @ 8:50 AM,
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Dengue Fever on the Rise
October 29, 2006
Tags: Dengue, Dengue Fever, Epidemic , Cure for Dengue
Like many others, I have been following with great concern the rapid spread of Dengue Fever in Pakistan and across the region.
In India, for example, the death toll from Dengue is now up to 144 and the number of afflicted at more than 8180 (here). In Pakistan, at least 25 deaths have been reported and the death rate from Dengue is significantly more than elsewhere (here). The population is now, rightly, very worried. As many as 1800 cases have been confirmed and far more are expected (here):
According to the statistics of National Institute of Health, blood samples of 89 suspected Dengue Fever patients have been received, out of which 39 cases have been diagnosed positive. In Islamabad, 21 out of 61 suspected Dengue Fever cases found positive. Thus, the number of Dengue Fever patients in the twin cities is 60.... A report from Lahore says that the management of Sheikh Zaid hospital has been tight-lipped on deaths of two dengue fever patients in the hospital whereas four more patients infected by dengue virus have been detected... According to another report, following Karachi, Sindh interior, Islamabad and Rawalpindi, dengue fever seemed to have entered the NWFP province also, as the World Health Organization (WHO) has confirmed the death of a child, 7 with all the symptoms of suffering from the dengue fever... The ministry [of Health] said that the dengue in Sindh has taken the toll of 27 lives and 78 dengue patients have been admitted into the different hospitals in Karachi during the last 24 hours, while in the same period 92 patients were discharged from the hospitals in Karachi and Sindh after the recovery from dengue fever.
This is obviously serious and has the potential to exacerbate other health challenges and is putting further strain on an already inadequate health infrastructure.
Yet, from what I can gather from the media reports, it seems that both governmental and civil society institutions are reacting to this outbreak in a concerted and thought-out fashion. Newspapers have regularly been carrying large advertisements from the Health Ministry outlining the steps that citizens can take (click on image in this post). Elaborate information and detection strategies are being developed and deployed. Hospitals have stepped up their Dengue-related services. Travel services from PIA and Pakistan Railways are taking measures to contain the spread of the disease.
Yet, from what I can gather from the media reports, it seems that both governmental and civil society institutions are reacting to this outbreak in a concerted and thought-out fashion. Newspapers have regularly been carrying large advertisements from the Health Ministry outlining the steps that citizens can take (click on image in this post). Elaborate information and detection strategies are being developed and deployed. Hospitals have stepped up their Dengue-related services. Travel services from PIA and Pakistan Railways are taking measures to contain the spread of the disease.
As with so many health challenges - and more than most because of its nature - Dengue is likely to hit the poorest and already vulnerable populations the most. I just hope that all this reported action at the national, provincial and local levels will bear results and we can minimize, to the extent possible, its spread and damage.
This post is cross-posted at the blog All Things Pakistan.
posted by Shirazi @ 9:31 PM,
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The Zip Code Guy
October 26, 2006
I've seen amazing feats performed by these seemingly unknown performers. I've seen them riding bikes on a rope, throwing a card by hand (1 card from the peck) without folding it, to the roof of a building. My favourite performance to date however, remains as the one given by the Zip Code Guy.
This guy knows each and every postal (ZIP) code around the world and also knows some famous attractions in each and every ZIP code area around the world. If you tell him your Zip code, he will tell you the city you are from, will talk to you in your native language (only a few words, of course) and will also tell you the local attractions of your area. He told a lady that she was from Kieve, Ukraine. Another one from Rutgers, Holland, one from Denmark, Japan etc.
I was however, still not impressed so to test him, I raised my hand and told him that I am from Postal Code 75950. And Ka-Boom!!!!These were his exact words" My friend you are from Pakistan, and a city called Karachi and a place called Federal-B-Area in Karachi". He was right. Federal-B-Area Karachi is where I grew up and the postal code there is indeed 75950. Then he asked me in Urdu "aap kaisay haiN?".
The people around me and myslelf were just dumbfounded. It was very impressive. Then he asked Zip codes at random of 25 street people. And then by pointing to each one of them he recalled correctly their zip codes, their cities and some attractions in their area like famous restaurants etc.
At the end of the show, he asked for voluntary donations by saying "Pay me or I know where you live". A roar of laughter went in the air from the crowd and everyone paid him some amount.
The home page of the Zip Code Man: http://www.zipcodeman.com
Update: Zip Code Man is writing a book titled "The Story of the Zipcodeman" that is coming out by this winter. This book will tell us how he became the Zipcodeman.
Labels: Owais Mughal
posted by Shirazi @ 9:44 AM,
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The Lost Art of Fountain Pens
Being away from Pakistan for over a decade and now living in rural Missouri, I have missed many small things which I always used to take for granted. One such trivial thing was the joy of writing with a fountain pen.
A Fountain pen was first patented in US in the year 1884 but since then writing with it has become a lost art. I have shopped around for fountain pens in US and the cheapest ones I have found cost around $15 and they writes so bad that Pakistani 'Eagle' brand can beat then anytime and anyplace.
Eagle is an international brand but their product in Pakistan was one of the best or at least it feels like it after all these years of nostalgic memories. Twenty years ago a Pakistani 'Eagle' used to cost around rupees four. I preferred to write Urdu with Eagle because its nib was not that fine. For writing English, I had a 'Made in China, 'HERO' brand pen which was priced around rupees eleven. Then there were some really cheap fountain pens which gave wonderful Urdu writing. One of them was 'RAJA' (The Prince) fountain pen which cost around a princely sum of rupees 2 only. Another cheap fountain pen was ‘Dollar’ which also cost around rupees three.I had my Raja pen’s nib cut at an angle (Z-nib) to write the 'Nastaleeq Urdu’ script. I never mastered the art of writing 'Nastaleeq Urdu' or calligraphy but it was fun to at least try writing it.We used a 'z-nib' fountain pen to write Sindhi also. I remember that some of my class fellows used 'z-nib' to write complete exam papers of Sindhi. They however, always struggled to finish the paper in time too.For those of us who graduated high school from Sindh Board may remember that one question in Sindhi ‘salees’ (easy) board exam was about writing a Sindhi poem in 'khush-khat' (good hand-writing). This question was repeated every year and everyone practiced very hard in it to score some sure-shot marks. I used a 'z-nib' fountain pen to writethat poem.
Somehow improving hand-writing has always been a big deal in Pakistan’s school system. The generation before mine used to write on a washable wooden board (takhti) and used ink-dip calligraphic pens for Urdu. We didn’t use ‘takhti’ but up to grade X we were not allowed to use ball-point pens as it was supposed to destroy our hand-writings. This strict rule relaxed a bit in Grade XI and XII but I remember a certain teacher in Grade XII used to throw ball-points out of the class window if he saw anyone writing with it.
Writing with ball-points and markers for the past many years made me crave for fountain pens so much so that on a trip to Taiwan in 2003, fountain pens were the first and the last shopping I did. I now proudly own a collection of fountain pens and I write with them whenever I crave. 
Hopefully on my next trip to Pakistan I'll buy a few more fountain pens
Labels: Owais Mughal
posted by Shirazi @ 9:22 AM,
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Eid Messages
October 24, 2006
I have been fortunate to receive so many Eid greetings from family and friends, also from friends in cyber world. All sent their best wishes and prayers on this festive eve. The message line that struck me most was this, “Wish I was with you on this Eid.” (Though it was trough SMS and was sent anonymously.
posted by Shirazi @ 10:09 AM,
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Danube Delta
October 23, 2006
First mentioned in 515-513 BC by Herodot, the Greek historian, the Delta is now the tourism destination we take the greatest pride in. The Delta is unfurled between the seashore of the Black Sea and the arms of the Delta's inhabitants have a way of life that has not changed for centuries. The relatively small number of people leaving here has eased the survival of the delta's amazing ecosystems. The territorial mobility knows permanent and temporary shifting when the population goes to work or to school. Delta's inhabitants can be grouped in 15 rural places and 2 towns: Tulcea and Sulina.
Tulcea - the delta’s gateway, is a town with a little under 100.000 inhabitants, built on the Geto-Dacian settlement, Aegyssus 2.600 years ago. It's a town with naval, industrial and tourist's functions.
Sulina - the farthest Eastern town of
The Delta Danube shelters 98% of the aquatic fauna of
The sturgeons and the herrings have the important scientific and economical roles. The birds are those who created the fame of the delta, also known from the beginning of the century as an avian paradise. 327 species can be met here, representing 81% of the Romanian avifauna. Of these, 218 species stay in delta, while 109 species pass through the delta staying for varying periods in the autumn, in the winter or in the spring.
The vegetation of the region is also breath taking. The water lily remains my all time favorite. Tourists come here for fishing, bird watching, hunting, taking cruises down the Danube or simply enjoying the uniqueness of the place. More pictures and information from here, here and here.
posted by Shirazi @ 11:30 AM,
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Bazm-e-Eid
October 22, 2006
Owais Mughal
Eid festival is here. I have collected some Eid related poetry from the web which I will share in the following in my own hand writing. In these ashaar (poetic couplets) I have tried to capture different moods of Eid festival. Some have an obvious celebratory tone while others are humorous or serious. I will also try to translate these ashaar so that our English readership can also enjoy the thought that goes behind them. Some of our readership can understand Urdu poetry very well but cannot read the nastaleeq Urdu script therefore I'll include Roman Urdu script for them.
(1) The date of Eid festival is determined by sighting of a new month's moon. This moon sighting has a very important and festive value as it announces the arrival of Eid festival. The following sher is by Saghar Siddiqui in which he is comparing eye brows of his beloved to the crescent shape of Eid moon.
Approximate translation goes like this:
The crescent moon is as sharp as her eye-brows
For a long while it remained hard to look at
Roman Urdu:
un ke abro-e-khameeda ki tarah teekha hai
apni aaNkhoN meiN baRi der chubha eid ka chaaNd
(2) An important part of Eid festivities is the cooking of different types of desserts. In Pakistan, sweet vermicelli noodles called sewayiaN is the most common dessert cooked on day of Eid. In the following sher an anonymous poet; under spell of the great desserts cooked on Eid; is comparing his beloved's long tresses to sewayiaN.
Approximate translation goes like this:
It must be under the spell of great Eid food
That beloved's tresses also look like sewayiaN
Roman Urdu:
ye Eid ke pakwaan ka kuch aisa asar hai
mahboob ki zulfeN bhi lagti haiN sewayiaaN
(3) For those who think they are not treated fair by life, festivals in general bring a sad reminder of their grievances. Following sher from an anonymous poets depicts a similar situation.
Approximate translation goes like this:
When grievances filled to the brink in the pot of life
People in pain drank by dissolving the moon of Eid in it
Roman Urdu:
talkhiyaaN baRh gayeeN jab zeest ke pemaanay meiN
ghol ke dard ke maaroN ne piya Eid ka chaaNd
(4) As written above, the Sighting of Eid moon brings happiness to people. It is also a moment when people in love try to steal glances at each other. Appearence of the girl's father in such situations however, works as a spoiler. It reminds me of the famous writer Shafiq-ur-Rehman's book where he humorously describes a girl's father as the most important person in South Asia. According to him; not even a leaf moves without permission from a girls father in South Asia.
Approximate translation goes like this:
Every one watches the Eid moon happily
It is just may fate that I got my bones broken
I was lost in staring at the beauty of my moon
Just that suddenly my moon's father dropped by
Roman Urdu:
chaaNd raat ko sabhi dekheN hilal-e-Eid ko
ik hamara hi naseeba haDDiyaaN tuRwa gaya
hum the chaaNd ke nazzaaray meiN khoay hoay
bus achaanak chaaNd ka abba wahaaN aa gaya
(5) Another tradition of eid festival is that families gather on roof tops for moon sighting. Sometimes the moon is sought across the roof tops instead of horizon. Describing one such situation poet Saghar Siddiqui has said following words.
Approximate translation goes like this:
While eyes kept looking for moon in the vastness of horizon
My heart found my moon nearby
(6) Following couplet is by Steve Almas. It is a prayer asking for sighting of ones beloved.
Approximate translation goes like this:
Without seeing my beloved I cannot celebrate this Eid
Create a possibility because I cannot celebrate this Eid
O God, You have shown whole world a shining moon
Now Show me my moon because I cannot celebrate this Eid
Roman Urdu:
bin dekhay osay yaa rab ye Eid na guzray
kar paida koi sabab ye Eid na guzray
dunya ko dikhaaya hai ik chaaNd jo tu ne
mujh ko bhi dikha de ab ye Eid na guzray
(7) Following sher has this homorous touch to it where it talks about men who are bald or on the edge of getting bald. The poet himself is a bald person and talks about how his shiny bald scalp was mistaken as Eid moon by the neighbors.
Approximate translation goes like this:
On 23rd of Ramzan I climbed up to the roof
And next day neighbors celebrated the Eid
Roman Urdu
23 ramzan ki shab hum chat par ja beThay
aglay toz paRosi Eid manaa beThay
(8) The following sher talks about feeling of people who are spending this eid away from the loved ones.
Approximate translation goes like this:
How many stars got trickled through eye lashes
How many short stories got created by the moon of Eid
Roman Urdu:
kitni palkoN se fazaaoN meiN sitaaray TooTay
kitnay afsaanoN ka unwaan bana Eid ka chaaNd
(9) The word mubarak means blessings or happiness. The most common eid greeting in Pakistan is saying each other Eid Mubarak (Happy Eid)
Approximate translation goes like this:
Eid Mubarak to the one who now lives happily among strangers
Eid Mubarak to the one who now does not think about me
Roman Urdu:
gheroN meiN hai jo shaad osay Eid Mubarak
hum jis ko nahiN yaad osay Eid Mubarak
(10) Eid is also an occasion when people tend to forget their differences and become friends again. Following sher talks to this sentiment in a lighter tone where two lovers seem to be reconciling their differences on Eid.
Approximate translation goes like this:
It was asked in the letter "when is Eid?"
"Please write down the exact date"
Since we've been fighting lately so I wrote
Eid will be the day when you come back to me
Roman Urdu:
khat meiN likha tha Eid kab hogi
hum ko taareeKh likh kar bhijwaayeN
chooNkay jhagRa tha is liyay hum ne
likh diya aap jab bhi aa jaayeN
posted by Shirazi @ 9:00 AM,
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Diwali, Juma-tul-Vida and Eid
October 21, 2006
This Friday was Juma-tul-Vida (the last Friday in Ramzan), Diwali celebrations are taking place as I write this, and Eid-ul-Fitr is likely to be on Tuesday (plus or minus a day or so).
These are auspicious and spiritually significant days. By way of conveying our choicest greetings to our readers on these occasions, we wanted to share these two wonderful photogrpahs with you.
The first photograph is of a Diwali lamp being lit in Krishna Mandir in Saddar, Rawalpindi (here). Similar celebrations are also happening elsewhere in Pakistan (here), as across the world. I remember the first Diwali celebration I ever attended was in the Temple in Lalkurti, Rawalpindi. Later, I attended Diwali celebrations in Karachi and near Tando Allah Yar in Sindh. As someone who takes the promise imbedded in the white part of Pakistan's flag as being absolutely sacred I am very happy to write today about this joyous festival rather than the more worrisome developments we have written about before (here and here).
The second is of Juma-tul-Vida prayers at the historic Wazir Khan mosque in the heart of old Lahore. Like Fawad Zakariya (here), I too like this mosque immensely: for its architecture, for its presence as an oasis in the middle of purana Lahore, and for the spiritual sense one feels in it. The Badshahi mosque also has an overpowering sense of spirituality - as do so many places of worship - but I have been particularly fond of this mosque; moreover, I think this photograph does justice to the structure as well as to the occasion.
This post is cross-posted at the blog All Things Pakistan.
posted by Shirazi @ 2:49 PM,
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Has Anyone Given You a Slug Today?
October 20, 2006
Guest Post by Carol W
I think someone has been giving Brian Clark at Copyblogger slugs lately. No, not the banana slugs that are famous here in the Pacific Northwest. I am speaking of the kind that Jennifer James spoke about in her book Defending Yourself Against Criticism - The Slug Manual. Brian said today, A reader contacted me after my last post and called me out for using the term “link bait” in it. I can only imagine what Brian's reader had to say, but I would almost bet Brian was the recipient of a slug somewhere along the way.
"Slugs" are given in many ways. They usually contain something like, "I really admire you for the kind of work you do. My pride would get in the way." Or the dreaded, "I am only telling you this because I love you".Twenty years ago I read Dr. James' book and it is still just as relevent today as it was then. With so many of us blogging and allowing comments, this book will be invaluable as a guide so that you can spot a slug when you see or hear one, but also so that you can be ready with a reply to repel those nasty slugs.
I highly recommend Dr. James' book, Defending Yourself Against Criticism - The Slug Manual.
Read more by Carol W at her blog Pentimento
posted by Shirazi @ 8:31 AM,
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Earthquake Economy
October 19, 2006
Economists should attempt to estimate the transition path of the Pakistan economy to its new equilibrium after the earthquake. Unfortunately, this has not started happening yet.
Relevant (Thank you): Google Search
Tags: Earthquake, Quake, Pakistan, South Asia, Economy, Relief
posted by Shirazi @ 11:31 AM,
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7' 2" Woman Too Tall for Pakistan?
The Daily Times (18 October, 2006) reports (based on a report in the UK tabloid The Daily Mail) that "A Pakistani woman seven feet and two inches tall is to live in Britain on benefits after claiming asylum because she is ‘too tall’ to return home."
Zainab Bibi, 33, claims she faces constant persecution and ridicule in her own country over her height. She has lodged an asylum claim with the Home Office and has already been granted a two-year visa to remain in the UK. Zainab, who in 2003 held the title of the tallest woman in the world, plans to live off benefits and take advantage of free NHS healthcare. Zainab lodged her application for asylum claiming she was repeatedly attacked in her hometown Toba Tek Singh near Faisalabad. She said youths in her hometown threw stones and rocks at her and often pulled at her clothing. She added that one man hit her with a stick breaking her wrist and now she is too afraid to return to Pakistan for fear of further attacks. After flying in from Pakistan, she claimed asylum in June and was given a council flat in Stockport, Greater Manchester, where she pays no rent or council tax and receives £40 a week in benefits. Zainab’s case is likely to be heard next year, according to the Daily Mail.
Years ago when I was very young I remember meeting Alam Channa, then the tallest man in the world. I still have a photograph with him. I remember that instead of being awed by this 'world record holder' that everyone was proud of, I felt really bad and sad for this gentle soul and the great discomfort he had to go through (I remember watching him coming out of a small Suzuki 800). Since then, I have never understood the silly glee and shallow pride that some people get out of supposed 'records' such as this and, frankly, now I have a very low opinion of most things in the Guinness Book of World Records.More...I feel sad for Zainab and can only imagine the type of ridicule and taunting that she must have to go through where people start treating her like a 'tamasha' rather than a real human being. In Alam Channa's case it was a medical condition that made him tall, I do not know if it is the same in Zainab's case.
In a society where just being a woman can sometimes be difficult enough, being a woman who is 'so different' and 'stands out', quite literally, could possibly not be easy. I wish however, that people in her home town had not chased her away and still wish that somehow we could give her the respect and the ability to lead a normal life within Pakistan. I note in the picture her broad smile and the Pakistan flag she wears proudly around her neck. Could not the image-makers of Pakistan do something better for her than a Council flat and £40 a week?
Compare her with World's Shortest Woman
This post is cross-posted at the blog All Things Pakistan.
Labels: Tallest Woman
posted by Shirazi @ 3:54 AM,
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Would You Blog as the Opposite Sex?
October 18, 2006
You’ve been approached by a well-financed enterprised to blog for them on a high-end blog, called Views. The blogging team will be you and one other person, omeone of the opposite sex. Each of you will be paid US$60,000/year to post at least six times a week about your opinions on any topic– from music to arithmetic.
The blog will be launched with a massive media blitz, and you’ll have access to the esources of an entire media library for photos and content.
The catch? Each of you must blog under the guise of a member of the opposite sex — in other words, you’d be switching roles — and your contract binds you to keep our true identity secret.
Given the think veil of secrecy the Internet provides and facility it gives to switch roles, I have already said yes. What is your take on this?
posted by Shirazi @ 3:35 PM,
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Standing in Line
October 17, 2006
4:00 pm: I am exhausted after pulling an all-nighter. But I have things to do. I have to post this letter before 5 pm today. And then I have to rush to a meeting at 5 pm. Enter the University bookstore. I could spend a whole day in this book haven, but too much on my mind right now. I’m heading straight to the post office located conveniently inside. Oh dear! Disappointed sigh as I catch sight of the impossibly long line weaving through the aisles of the bookstore. The line is huge, and I shall be at the very end of it.
I make my way there. There’s a lady with her son, about 5 years old. They don’t seem to be waiting in line, but I can’t be sure. The lady’s looking at a blue folder with the UofT logo emblazoned on it. The kid’s wandering about, his winter boots making clonking noises as he walks. “Excuse me, are you in line?” I ask. “Yeah,” she replies.
Suddenly, she is in line, at attention, son with her, blue folder chucked in disarray atop a neatly stacked pile of identical blue folders. I step behind her, checking my watch periodically. My eyes are closing. I’m going to have to stop pulling these all-nighters! And it’s getting close to meeting time – I’ll be late if this line doesn’t start moving.
I hate standing in line! I should have come earlier!
4:06 pm: The woman in front of me is getting restless. The line is moving – slowly. Strange thoughts float through my mind. Hey, perhaps I could take a nap standing up! No, that would be too weird. Instead, I marvel at the cashier’s slowness. But the woman in front of me doesn’t share my fascination. She wants to move. She can’t stop moving. Now she’s fiddling with a postcard. A pink ballerina graces the front. Despite myself, I start making comparisons. The ballerina’s graceful, but just watching this woman’s incessant movement is making me jittery and annoyed. And her son – his constant clomping keeps disturbing my sleepy reverie. I’m gonna scream!
4:07 pm: Beneath the darkness of my closed eyes, her voice penetrates. I open my eyes. She’s telling her son she’s going to check out something at the other end of the bookstore. He wants to come with her. She turns to me. “Would you hold my place for me? I’ll just be a minute.” I hesitate. I hate holding the line for people, but no one’s behind me, and she’ll just be gone a minute anyway. And it might be nice to have a little break from her nervous dance. Plus she looks kinda scary. That does it for me. “Uhh, ok,” I say reluctantly.
4:10 pm: I’m past the ballera postcard now, and she hasn’t returned. She’s probably doing her shopping while I hold her place in the line. I’m bored to death and thinking evil thoughts.
4:15 pm: One person sneaks up behind me. Then another. Then a couple. The line behind me is getting snakier than ever. Minutes pass. Where is she? She said she’d just be a minute. I can’t hold her place like this while other people are waiting. That’s unfair to everyone else.
4:25 pm: Finally! I’m getting close to the front of the line, but still, the line’s moving veeery slowly. No sign of the woman and her son yet. I’m getting agitated. It’s just not right for someone to be gone so long and then come back expecting to be served before everyone else waiting so patiently. She said a minute. She’s been gone for many. She’s forfeit her place in the line long ago. I hope this doesn’t get confrontational. I’m near the front. I’ll be over and done with by the time she gets here.
4:30 pm: Four more people ahead of me! I’m getting there. The feelings of elation are mixed with frustration. It’s getting late. I’m going to be late for my meeting. And I need to get this letter in on time. I sure hope that lady doesn’t come back.
4:34 pm: My God, I hear clomping. It’s getting louder by the second! They’re coming! Oh no! My heart beats a little faster. What to do, what to do? Perhaps she’ll see the huge line and go to the end like she should. But no! She’s coming. Think, think. Clomp, clomp.
Aha! The line is such that I can avoid her if I want to. I pretend not to see her. Thankfully, she doesn’t say anything to me. But that’s because she’s spotted another victim. She seems to know the woman behind me, and they’re having a long and very loud conversation about work and school and everything in between. Okay, she’ll stay there. Fine.
4:36 pm: She breaks off her passionate conversation about all the trials she’s been through in life to speak to her child in hushed tones. “Go stand in front of her,” she advises. Suddenly, her son squeezes his way past me. The nerve of mother and son. Can’t do anything about it. Seething is good at this point.
4:38: I get to the counter, the boy in front of me. Suddenly, the woman pushes before me, her conversation with her friend long forgotten. The cashier looks at both of us. “Who’s first?” she asks. I hesitate. I feel grumpy and mean. What right does she have? Then, being the relenting fool that I am, I give in.
“You can go ahead,” I say, looking over at the woman now in front of me. She’s still not looking at me. No thanks, no nothing. “Is that okay with you?” the cashier asks. “Yeah,” I confirm, still seething inside. I watch as the woman gets her package mailed, and then waltzes out, no backward glance. What can I say? I’ll be late for my meeting, my mail’s just narrowly missed the deadline, but God help me, I’m just happy I’m not her.
posted by Shirazi @ 9:46 AM,
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Bottled Up Inside
Teenagers are faced with many issues across the country. These issues such as loneliness, poor home life, absent parents, lack of employment opportunities, and a sense of hopelessness seem to be prevalent among teens.The National Institute of Mental Health reports that more than 1.5 million people under the age of eighteen are depressed. Although the depression rate among African Americans and Latinos is lower than Whites, this number is quickly increasing. In addition, the suicide rate among black teens is increasing. Suicide is now the third leading cause of death for African-American youth.Young children and teens are faced with bullying, peer pressure, and other negative behaviors that cause them to feel an abundance of sadness. Many youngsters don’t realize they may be depressed. They don’t understand that with good counseling, they stand a better chance of facing life’s challenges. A lack of understanding about depression still exists in many cultures, including people of color. Those who acknowledge they are depressed are deemed “crazy” or mentally challenged.
Bottled Up Inside: African American Teens and Depression seeks to educate and inform parents, teenagers and the community that with counseling and therapy, teenagers can lead healthy and prosperous lives.This book will be available in December 2006 on most online services. You may also request it at bookstores everywhere.
Note: African American teenagers are going through some very difficult times. In an era where many of our teens are dropping out of school for many reasons - parents, teachers and community leaders are trying to address this issue to find out why. In Bottled Up Inside: African American Teens and Depression, Rose Jackson-Beavers, a veteran social service administrator, looks at what causes depression and how parents and others can identify symptoms. Jackson-Beavers also identifies treatment options and resources.
posted by Shirazi @ 8:28 AM,
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The Future of the Internet
October 09, 2006
How do you see the Internet in future, say ten year from now?
posted by Shirazi @ 11:00 PM,
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Learning; My Memories
Earlier, I learnt most of what I have known throughout my life during early stages of life from my parents and in the primary school. My teachers in small village primary school taught me reading, writing, counting and other basic skills required to lead a successful life. I have never forgotten the efforts of junior Vernacular Teachers to instill some kind of discipline in me. They also taught me about giving, sharing, enjoying, commitment, helping, smiling, trying and caring in addition to the academics.
After 16 years of schooling, as fresh graduate from a professional academy, I started looking for the openings to join the race for practical life. The field I landed in was very demanding. This was like boarding an express train. I had the chance to go places, meet people from different walks of life and experience few of the fading cultures of our society.
Someone write this, I always think for me, “I learnt to take orders, give orders, solve equations, Write a poem, program a computer, butcher a chicken, make a tasty meal, fight efficiently and listen to others. Specialization has never been a passion in my life. I used to think it is only for academia and intelligentsia.” I always thought I knew enough to live in the world of mortals. Obviously, I was wrong. Knowledge is cumulative and keeps changing. “The process of learning”, as they say, “is stretched from cradle to grave.”
During my career marathon, I have had enlightening three years in National University of Modern Languages (UIML) Islamabad - one of the finest institutes in the world. There I learnt a rich language of Mikhail Yurievich Lermontov, Fedor Mikhailovich, Dostoevsky and Maksim Gorky. Without physically going to Union of Soviet Socialist Republics (now Central Asian States), I got aquatinted with the close Soviet society and classic literature produced by Russian writers during eighteenth century.
In developed countries, almost every student has to take one foreign language of his choice as a compulsory subject. This chance has not been provided in our system of education. But I was lucky to get a chance to learn the language. It is during my three years at UIML that I learnt as to why largest circulation Soviet newspaper Pravda (meaning truth) failed to report the news of Soviet occupation in Afghanistan in 1979. I also became vaguely aware of some of the reasons that ultimately caused death of USSR - despite large natural resources and literate work force - at the age of 74.
Thus, as a student all my life I have experienced our rich and diverse educational heritage. But sadly, I am aware that we have no regular standard and perpetual education policy. Even the curriculum is different in different institutions. In last 52 years eight education policies were given by different governments that died the moment governments went out of power. Which is why we find no uniform education standards in the country?
So as student, who started from a village school, where in summers classes are still held under shady trees and who has now joined one of the best universities in the county, I would say to the government to accord education a priority it merits, not by giving yet an other policy or plan but by providing perpetuity and conducive atmosphere where schools, colleges and universities can become centers of excellence and innovation. Visionary initiatives should be taken to enable these centers of learning to create new knowledge. Me by, then we will not need an additional test for admission into medical or other professional colleges and our degrees will have their value. Student’s teachers, private sector, publisher of books, government all have to play positive role to change the existing education culture before it is stagnated.
Albert Einstein, one of the exceptionally intelligent scientist of last century who gave the famous theory of relativity, in his book entitles ‘the world as I see it’ wrote, “Lecture rooms are numerous and large but the number of young people who genuinely thirst after truth and justice is small”. The youth of my country, who are faring well despite all disparities and olds, have to disprove this thought. Provide them the opportunity and they can do it.
posted by Shirazi @ 9:15 PM,
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Earthquake Numbers - A Year Later
October 08, 2006
Tags: Earthquake, Pakistan, Kashmir
This post comes live at exactly 8:50:38 AM, Pakistan Standard Time - Exactly one year ago a massive and traggic earthquake hit Northern Pakistan, Kashmir, and parts of India and Afghanistan. This is a moment to simply pause, pray and ponder.
To think back on what has been done and what still needs to be done, I just compiled a quick list of some numbers of where things stand today. They make for a sobering read:
- Total dead in Earthquake = 80,000 - 90,000
- Estimated proportion of children amongst dead = 80 percent
- Early recovery assistance pledged by international donors = US$ 255 Million
- Early recovery pledges that have NOT been recieived yet = US$ 94 Million
- Original estimate of long-term reconstruction costs = US$ 3.6 Billion
- Current (updated) estimate of long-term reconstruction costs = US$ 4.4 Billion
- Current estimated shortfall = US$ 800 Million
- Total displaced by Earthquake = 3,500,000
- Affectees still living in tents in camps = 35,000 - 40,000
- At-risk families without permanent shelter = 60,000 - 100,000
- Additional people who might need shelter this winter = 30,000 - 60,000
- Estimated houses destroyed = 400,000
- Estimated houses whose rebuilding has begun = 17%
By way of disclosure, I should note that these have been culled from various news reports from reputable sources. These are mostly based on estimates; and estimates do vary. However, the numbers are such that even if we were to assume that all are grossly exaggerated, even then they are worthy of our attention and of our reflection.
ATP has previously written about this issue here, here, here and here. There were numerous websites and blogs that came up in response to the tragic events of 8 October 2005, one of these - Help Pakistan - has called for Pakistani blogs to post on this subject on 8 October to raise awareness. I am sure many are planning to do so already and I think it is a great idea. Indeed, the web and blogs became one of the many vehicles through which the Pakistani citizenry everywhere joined hands to do whatever they could to assist in that time of great need.
Update: Shaken lives by Fatima Butto - The book marks the moment that brought life to a standstill when a killer earthquake hit Pakistan’s northern regions and Azad Kashmir on October 8, 2005. It is a compilation of recorded accounts of those — victims and volunteers — affected by the catastrophe.
8:50 A.M. 8 October 2005: Stories of Hope and Courage from the Earthquake in Pakistan
By Fatima Bhutto
Oxford University Press, Plot # 38, Sector 15, KorangiIndustrial Area, Karachi.
Tel: 111-693-673
Email: ouppak@theoffice.net
Website: www.oup.com.pk
ISBN 0-19-547403-172pp. Rs250
posted by Shirazi @ 8:50 AM,
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Power Station of the Past
October 06, 2006
Situated on the bank of river Ravi on Okara Faisalabad Road Gogera was once an important and dignified town in the plans of Central Punjab. It is reduced to a shabby and sleepy suburb of Okara today. Town still boasts its importance when it was important British power centre and district headquarters from 1852 to 1865 and the part played by the resilient people of the area during War of Independence in 1857. The stories of the war that was fought around Gogera echo in the pages of history books.
The only historic building -- a British court -- that reminds of the colonial period has been converted into a school. The verandas of the old building with round arches have been clogged to create additional rooms and red thin bricks are covered with coats of whitewash. It was much better if the building could have been conserved in its original shape. That does not seem possible now.
Just in front of the school is dilapidated and crumbling Bakhshi Khana with its round corners towers. It was built in Mughal era. The barracks where prisoners used to be kept before and after appearing in the court have vanished. The treasury room inside the huge complex is still in tact and being used as a living room these days. The huge bargad tree in the compound is an abode of squirrels and common birds. There is also water well in the courtyard that serves as a source of drinking water for the residents. Sitting in the shade of old tree, the resident of the evacuee property told, "We want to build a new house in place of this khandar but presently the property is under litigation. We will do it after the decision by the court." Another sign of old time we are poised to loose forever.
In the middle of the lush green fields, the circumferential walls of a Christian colonial cemetery -- the last resting-place of Lord Berkley -- can also be seen. Neglected ever since! The British Government had allotted agricultural land to the local trustees for upkeep of the cemetery but they have not been able to preserve this important historic sign. "The parameter has been used to keep the animals in the past," told my host Agha Najm ul Hassan, a school teacher and social activist who accompanied me during exploration of the town. I asked many locals but no body could indicate the place where used to be Gogera Central Jail.
Lord Berkley's Last Resting PlaceHistory not only chronicles the events, it also influences the readers as to how the historians had experienced the events. It often describes just what authors want you to know. Most of the sources for the history of the Subcontinent for the colonial period are gazetteers written by British army and civil bureaucrats. And, sadly, they have written our history from their point of view.
British have narrated the history of 'War of Independence 1857' as a 'mutiny' and the heroes of the war have been portrayed as 'insurgents'. One of the first real precursors of the storm that was brewing against British occupants in the Subcontinent occurred in Gogera on the night of July 26, 1857 in the shape of an outbreak in central jail. News of British military actions at Mian Mir (Lahore) reached Gogera on May 13, 1857 that triggered the chain of events. Deputy Commissioner Gogera Elphinstone and Extra Assistant Commissioner Berkley fought the people of the area. The villages (including Jhamra -- village of Ahmed Khan Kharral) were burnt and innocent people killed in search of Ahmed Khan Kharral and other activists. Troops and artillery gun from Lahore and Multan Garrisons also reinforced the Gogera based British forces. British suffered heavy losses including killing of Extra Assistant Commissioner Berkley. The courageous struggle by the people of Gogera will always be remembered in the annals of history. Though there is nothing much left on ground that could be associated with the War of Independence or bring back the memories of the days gone by.
Sign of Bakshi KhanaGogera Town Committee was established in 1995 but the committee has not been able to make any difference in the condition prevailing in this market town. Only 13 sweepers and two donkey carts are not enough for keeping the town clean and remove exponentially growing municipal waste. "People keep their cows, buffaloes and goats in the streets," told an official of town committee. It is one of the rich town committees. The only project that has been under taken by the committee is brick lining of the streets in both parts of the town where water keeps standing even in dry seasons. Sewerage system and Degree College have been approved for the town. People think that the work will start soon. The committee is oblivious of the conditions of what remains of the heritage in the area.
Many of the old buildings lining Gogera's sinuous streets have seen no care or maintenance in near past. Population migration from interior has turned it into a sprawling town without civic amenities of the modern time, in a short time. Town is more rural than urban. It is a mixed cluster of houses widely varying in size and quality. Agha Najm ul Hassan says, "The residents are not familiar with civic amenities that should be available in the modern towns. There is no body to see the growth of the town and co-ordinate the effects of different agencies."
Gogera has every thing nature could bestow; hard working and spirited people, fertile land, water, communication infrastructure and clean healthy environment. This important power base during British period can be converted into important farm town though scientific development and adoption of modern techniques in the field of agriculture. This has not started happening yet.
posted by Shirazi @ 8:42 AM,
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Blogging (Ban) Era in Pakistan
October 05, 2006
{Oct 5, 2006} The ban on blogspot seems to have been lifted.
{Oct 6, 2006} Let us not use the word ban from now on; once again I can't read any blogspot(s) here.
posted by Shirazi @ 8:22 PM,
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The Haunted house of Hill Park
October 03, 2006
If you visited Hill Park Karachi of yesteryears, you may remember presence of a haunted house inside the Meraj amusement park. It was a small igloo shaped structure covered in bougainvillea and on the entrance there was a plaque displaying two words: Bhoot Bangla (The Ghost House) .On a fateful evening in 1981, we reached Hill Park around dusk time. At the entrance of the haunted house, we saw a 6-feet-tall, 3-feet-wide, and 2-feet-deep human being issuing entry tickets. He had six inch long moustaches and with a sinking sun in the background, his towering physique appeared ever more imposing.
I was only 10 years old at that time and to me this 6 x 3 x 2 = 36 cubic feet voluminous guy looked like nothing short of a bhoot (ghost) itself. My friends and I immediately gave him the nick name of Mr. Bhoot.
After issuing tickets, Mr. Bhoot placed us in a straight line and told us to enter the Haunted House one by one and only after we start hearing the scary music. All of us solemnly moved our heads in affirmative.
The set up was already starting to get on to us. A dark night, fear of unknown and a giant ghost-cum-human were looking scary all right.
After giving us instructions, Mr. Bhoot suddenly disappeared behind some curtains made out of torn jute bags. We heard a distinct click of a cassette player button and the place started rocking in a blast of theme horror music. The supposedly horror music was not scary at all. It was more like a sea storm making a land fall:
khooo khooo shooo shiaaoooN shapar chiaaoN and repeat.
As soon as we got the queue of scary music, we entered the horror house. At first we couldn’t see anything because of the darkness. As our irises expanded and we got used to the light, we started walking very cautiously and in a line according to Mr. Bhoot’s instructions.
Suddenly from left side something came flying in the air and hit one of my friends right on his face. It was a human arm, torn apart from the shoulder blade and soaked in blood. All of us shrieked in horror, but my friend who got hit was so scared that he grabbed onto this flying object as a reflex action and didn't let go of it. While we were still checking on to what had just hit us, Mr. Bhoot suddenly appeared from the darkness and showing his large purple teeth in ultraviolet light ordered us:
"choRo bhuee choRo ! haath ko jaane do! "(Let the arm go, guys)
That torn-apart human arm was actually made of cotton soaked in red color or may be red ink. It was made to slide across the room by pulling on a string. That string was pulled by none other than our Mr. Bhoot himself from some hidden location. The timing of rope pulling was so perfect that the arm had hit my friend right on his cheek. Mr. Bhoot must have perfected this art over time. After my friend let go of the arm, Mr. Bhoot disappeared in the darkness with as much swiftness as with which he had appeared.
We cautiously moved further. Wooden planks that made the passage were creaking under our feet. We saw some fake human skulls, bones and a few fake dead bodies lying around. The dead bodies had colorful Zero-watt bulbs glowing under them, so instead of looking horrifying they actually looked hilarious in the colors of green, red, blue and yellow. One dead body was however, wrapped in a white sheet and was moving slowly from ‘lying-down’ position to ‘sitting-up’ position, on the beat of the same old stormy music.
Shooooooo(lie-down), khoooooo (sit-up), shiaaaaoooN (lie-down) chiaaaooN (sit up again) and so on.
Since there was no Zero-watt bulb glowing under this dead body and the approximate DEAD area of this body was 36 cubic feet, we guessed it must be Mr. Bhoot pulling yet another stunt on us. So we acted cool and didn't give him any reaction. The anti-climax of that moving arm scene earlier had removed all fear from us and we knew if any thing moved, it was probably Mr. Bhoot himself.
The management of this haunted house was probably very poor because the same guy who had issued us entrance tickets, operated the music player, pulled the string to hurl the arm across visitors and then wore a white sheet to become a dead body.
The photo above shows the location of Meraj Amusement Park inside Hill Park .
The total time we spent inside haunted house was probably 3 to 4 minutes but that fun memory has lasted with me fore more than 25 years now and I recall every detail as if it happened just yesterday.
Tags: Memories, Society, Owais Mughal
posted by Shirazi @ 7:57 AM,
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Hypocrisy
Rancorous ruminations flood her thoughts, engulfing her mind with pernicious vengeance. May you die a painful death. May you burn in Hell forever. Bitterness overflows from her very soul.
But when she catches sight of you, her angry accusations are shoved aside, the disgusted sneer quickly wiped away. Suddenly, she is all-smiles and pretended interest; arms stretched open to receive you; warm, loving words flowing from her lying lips.
She hates you. But she does not tell you.
Know though that many others are aware. She has meticulously catalogued your faults for public access and retrieval. They all know. Believe me, I’ve heard the rumours too.
And yet you seek out her company and simper at her false praise, stubbornly refusing to see her for what she is. How can you not acknowledge the spiteful allegations? Do you not notice? Are you fooling yourself?
Or are you hiding mutual animosity beneath that cheerful veneer?
Ah, you see, I sense the truth.
You hate her. But you do not tell her. Two can play this game.
posted by Shirazi @ 5:32 AM,
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Portrait of Life
October 02, 2006
posted by Shirazi @ 1:56 PM,
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The Muztagh Pass Expedition - 2006
October 01, 2006
We were equally lucky going out for we got the plane to Skardu on 10 August where we found everything in order waiting for us. Ghulam Mohammed, who was handling this trip, is a very good operator. On the following morning we were on the jeeps to Askole - World's End. I bore with me a framed photograph of Haji Mehdi who ran that store in Askole back in 1990 where we purchased, among other things a bag of potato mix which was mistaken for powder milk up on Lukpe La and we had potato tea - a novelty, but who had since died. His sons now run a little inn in the village. So now I have a photograph of one of his sons holding up a picture of their father.
The walk began the next morning and we went up the Panmah Glacier. On the fourth day out we reached Shingchakpi Camp Ground where Godwin-Austen had met with the four Baltis coming out of the swirling storm clouds. Weather remained persistently bad with clouds obscuring the higher peaks and daily evening showers of rain.
We did not camp at Shingchakpi but carried on to the next camp ground about four hours farther. This was Skinmung which lies in a fertile ablation valley on the right bank of the Chring Glacier. After a day of rest the main camp was left here and we three expeditioners (Nasser Khan, Naeem Awan and I) together with out two high altitude guides moved to a yet higher camp towards the Muztagh Pass. Nasser called it Falling Rock Camp because all day and night long rocks came tumbling down the slope behind our camp. The two high altitude guides made a reconnaissance to the base of Muztagh Pass and reported that there was a largish ice cap at its foot where, they said, 'a plane can land' while the pass itself was a 200 metre rock face. We knew then that the Muztagh was no trekker's pass, but a mountaineer's.
Nevertheless, the next morning we all went out together - the five of us - with the mountaineering gear. For the first time we were on a white glacier in a dramatic landscape. At about a kilometre from the pass we halted. Below us, about a 100 metres lower, was the basin of Chiring Glacier with a few crevasses clearly visible and beyond the rock face did indeed rise a full 200 metres. To me it did not seem insurmountable. In fact, it looked rather easy. Above it was the large ice cornice that was perhaps 50 metres high with its hood facing our direction. This was the real menace and could not have been passed without seriously endangering ourselves.
Nasser and Naeem being government employees left me and I made my way from Skardu to Gilgit and from there to Kashgar. There I learned that my trekking permit which had been applied for two weeks earlier had not yet come through. And so I was laid up in Kashgar for three days. But since I wanted to look for Balti people in Yarkand, I went off with my guide (who spoke some English). In Yarkand we did meet up with a wonderful Balti man who spoke Urdu for he had been travelling in Pakistan. Neither he nor he said anyone else remembered why their ancestors came to Yarkand. Nor too did he know which route had been taken. He said his great-grandfather was the one to have settled here. This would mean the Baltis were travelling as late as after Younghusband's journeys in 1887 and two years later.
The permit finally came through and we found ourselves in Raskam village where we had three camels awaiting us. So Wahab, my guide, Seet, the camel handler and I set out along the Surukhwat River for Aghil Pass (Shipton crossed it in 1937 to climb a nearby peak and look into the headwaters of the Surukhwat). Three days later we were in the very dramatic valley of the Shaksgam River. Broad and pebbly, the valley was bordered by scree and conglomerate slopes wind-eroded into crazy ravines. In September the river itself was braided across the flood plain in several streams. Wahab said the valley was completely swamped from June to August.
Beyond lay Suget (Willow) Jungle. Shipton, Tilman, Spender and Auden had camped here in 1937 while they mapped the Shaksgam. I have to re-read Blank on the Map to see if there were any trees in Shipton's time, because now there were only Salix bushes. My guide wanted me to climb a ridge and look at the north face of K-2 and for the first time I told him that was not my aim. Until then, for fear of being stopped from going any further, I had lied about wishing to see only K-2. So I took him with me to the toe of the Sarpo Laggo Glacier and told him how the Baltis would have come. From that point, according to the GPS, it was only 28.5 km to the foot of the Muztagh Pass where we had turned back. And the big disappointment was that the nearest Chinese presence was at Raskam, five days' march away! We could have come down all the way without fear of persecution. Had we known that, we would have actually attempted to cross the Muztagh.
So that is in brief the story of the Muztagh Pass expedition. By the way, in Skardu I discovered that Yerkinpa was not a mulberry but an apricot. It being the end of the season, I was not able to take a sapling to Yarkand because, they said, it would just not go, it would die because it was so late in the season.
Salman Rashid is a traveler and travel writer of international repute. He has written many books including jhelum: CITY OF THE VITASTA
posted by Shirazi @ 10:02 AM,
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What are blog(s) to Me?
This blog is a resource for my thoughts. More often, I blog form impressions and or generate ideas to see how they invoke reactions, to keep track of others’ work in the fields of my interests, or simply to rant or point out things that come to my attention.
Also, I use blogging as a platform to prune ideas. This is where I meet others. And “I am neither geek, nor nerd, I am not a hacker, a phreaker, a programmer or any variety of technoid dweeb.”
What are blog(s) to you?
Internet is a lonely place without Blogs; a fine art and economics. Blogs are different to different people. I usually ask blogger friends to share their views on what is a blog to them?
Contribute your thoughts on blogging in general. In particular, write how you blog? Why? How blogging matters in life and work? Answer these questions and more (add what you feel is important dimension for you) and share {sajshirazi(at)gmail.com} here.
